Recommendations for parts cleaner fluid...

Years ago we used to use straight Varsol and 10% transmission fluid. Got the job done without ruining your hands. But there have been some major advancements in cleaning fluid formulas since then.
 
pontiac428 said:
It won't hurt the solvent much, but if you ever want to paint anything you wash without washing it twice to get the ATF off, leave it out of the tank.

The direct answer about ATF preventing evaporation is no, it won't make a difference, but as someone who every once in a while has to calculate the fugacity of chemical components in mixtures using Henry's law or Raoult's law, there is indeed a difference, but it's negligible for us in this context.

I like geeking out over chemicals.
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After putting new solvent in, cleaning oily parts at what point is it going to be a problem with paint again?
 
I always considered solvent to be a contaminant when painting. I use lacquer thinner to wash any surface I paint, even if only to remove oils left by by fingertips.

I believe that at an industrial level, there are paints which can still adhere to a surface that has a slight contamination to lighter petroleum products, like solvent residue, but have no examples. Consumer grade paints certainly do not have this capability.
 
Cadillac said:
I use a heated parts cleaner tank with a bio-degreaser I beleive it’s called ozzy juice. The system works great being heated. I’ve purchased the ozzy juice refills at oreillys.
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The heated ozzy juice system works great. The bio mat filter is another plus. Its a added maintenance so that has to be accounted for.

Steam cleaner even a small cheap one is great to have on hand.

Simple green works well as do many orthers some dont play well with aluminum.
 
Years ago while painting vehicles I would prime the car then light sand with 400 paper then use Prime Wash to the clean primer. I believe Prime Wash was a light form of lacquerer thinner. Never had a problem with paint adhering. Mind you it was acrylic enamel with hardener.
 
mac1911 said:
The heated ozzy juice system works great. The bio mat filter is another plus. Its a added maintenance so that has to be accounted for.

Steam cleaner even a small cheap one is great to have on hand.

Simple green works well as do many orthers some dont play well with aluminum.
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we had to stop using simple green to clean aircraft parts. Left a residue that eventually would build up enough to jam close tolerance parts.

Just something to keep in mind....
 
Provincial said:
there are paints which can still adhere to a surface that has a slight contamination to lighter petroleum products
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Yes I have used xylene base paints before. Still do, from time to time. You still have to clean the surface *very* well. If you don't the cure time takes a big hit - from 20 minutes to 2-3 hours if there is oil residue on the part. We buy and use the Xylene primer because we can recoat with finish paint almost right after priming. It is also much harder, which is very desirable in some applications.
great white said:
we had to stop using simple green to clean aircraft parts.
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Nice to know. I was considering making a vat of simple green. I wonder how Purple Power compares?
 
Gnpenning said:
After putting new solvent in, cleaning oily parts at what point is it going to be a problem with paint again?
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My expert answer? When you start seeing fish eyes in your paint job.

Medium aliphatic solvents (stoddard) are not vapor degreasers like TCE, so the oil is left on the part when the solvent evaporates. Think of aliphatic solvents as a row of football linemen coming after you (a lowly oil bubble) shoulder to shoulder. They will carry you all the way back to the end zone, but you might slip out. That's stoddard solvent. Now imagine they have their arms locked together like a chain and come after you... no escape, that's a vapor degreaser.
 
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