Replacing the broken bearings in my pm1440gs headstock

It's cool man, I totally get it. If you can't vent here where can you? Your machine is out of warranty right? I would expect a free bearing otherwise, for sure
I wouldn't be surprised if NO ONE there has actually done this operation. Kinda seems like it's new territory for them.
You mentioned Grizzly being moved up to #1- by who? HM? I have read that their service has improved a lot lately, but I don't think they sell any Taiwan machines- I could be wrong about that
M
 
Grizzly had a number of machines imported from Taiwan. In particular, the G0740 looks to be a rebadged Sunmaster ERL-1340 with some customizations. The bigger South Bend badged lathes are also Taiwanese imports.

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My machine is still in warranty, 2 months shy of the 2nd full year. I sent pm a "pointed" email yesterday. Would have been nice of them to help on this one. And another request for at least the part number for the bearing. Not really expecting anything... just got the parts from mcmaster to make the puller. Forum user takedeadaim has walked me thru the procedure and parts/tools needed. Just finished up a 12 hour night shift. Heading out to garage later to make the puller, move linkage and possibly move 1 gear that obstructs the bad bearing shaft from coming out.
Should have info in the next few days how this goes.
 
I feel your pain with the headstock disassembly. I broke a gear and damaged another gear in the headstock on my PM1440GT lathe. I had to disassemble my machine twice...it sucked. I've got it up & running now.
If you're anywhere near central OK holler at me and I'll see about helping you.
Good luck!

BP
 
I'm still waiting on some brass hammers and drifts but I could.not help myself, I'm curious how this will work. This is part of a text I sent to dean "takedeadaim". I offer this to the group, I dont want to damage anything, and I'm in no hurry, I want to take apart as much is needed to replace the old beatings with new and no more.

  • I made up a quick and dirty shaft puller. It appears the shaft will slide out very easy. It wants to but it stops at 2 points. 1 is shaft D, I mentioned it on a previous post. It has a 30 tooth gear on it and hits the first gear on the pulley side. That is held onto its shaft by a circlip. I would need a long slender circlip pliers with a 90 degree bend. Local hardware and tool stores dont have them, or at least what I am looking for, they need to be internal also. There is another obstacle in the way also. Shaft C goes thru a wall in the block, a support for the shaft a few inches before it exits out the chuck side housing.

    My hope was i could persuade the gears off the pulleyside, this would eliminate having to pull the small D shaft and that gear off. But that "support" is going to force me to remove the gears as I can "gently" remove them from the shaft.

    Right now that technique is me tapping a long piece of wood with a hammer on the tops and sides of the gears.

    The gear does not seem to be moving. It is not moving! I've thought about a small machinist type jack between gears
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    to coax them apart, but there is only about .840" clearance between the gears. I dont want to damage or break anything so I thought I'd send out a text to you and see what you think.

    Pics of the gears, D shaft gear, C shaft and the support/casting and the basic gear layout.
 
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Man, I'm not to sure you really needed to ask him that... "face palm"
 
Yeah larger snap ring pliers are alittle more challenging to find. McMaster will have them and I recommend a good sturdy pair. Cheap ones will make you throw them across the shop.
I am the type that takes as little apart for a job as possible. Been as field mechanic for 25yrs. Just to throw it out there. Bearings are junk gonna get replaced so no worries of damage but need to keep shaft as is right. What about tacking a piece to the OD of the ID OF bearing then use the slide hammer to hopefully pull bearing. The little heat on ID race will help with removal. Then do the same to other side. Leaving shaft where it is. I also have a puller that has a small hook to it like a seal puller but has a arm on it to be able to hook on groove where balls ride in bearing and hammer the arm which if hook stays will pull bearing out.
This is the one of the things that I hate about being a mechanic. Having to take half the machine apart to get to a seal or bearing in this case. Engineers never think of the end user or person that has to work on it. Good luck.
 
Thanks Cadillac. Yea, I just came in from the shop. Had a good hard look at it. Took out my random collection of older snap ring pliers to get a good idea what I need to make this work.

I have thought about a puller on the bearing edge as you mentioned, though nothing I have comes even close to being useable for that. It might be worth the effort to try. If i can make up something that attaches to my homebuilt puller, it would be a big headache reducer. Cant hurt to try.
Thanks for tossing out of ideas.
 
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