I sure would like to learn how you did the lacing string.
I have run into many of the old panels with the wire laced up and I think it's sooo cool
Lacing with twine is a
slow, laborous process. My first ship was commissioned in the '40s (AGB-4, W-283) when wire insulation was often fabric over rubber. Cable bundles were "shelacced" to render them waterproof. A serious concern on a warship. Usually when one had to be opened, in areas deep in the ship, "zip ties" were used to reassemble the mess. On weatherdecks and "high security" areas, the bundles had to be relaced. Proper lacing requires access all around the bundle, however repairs can be done with "half hitches" in pairs and the loops spaced as appropriate to the job. It's really simple, just spaced out "cox-combing".
Running wires on my motorcycles was a different issue. Many older bikes had barely tolerable electrical systems (Lucas, et al) so I ended up redoing the cabling. "
Spiro-Wrap" was a Godsend for that. In addition to confining the wires, breakouts were easy and the whole thing was semi-flexible. Worked nice for industrial panel doors as well, where regular access was required. The bundle would easily twist along its' length. I bought it in hundred foot coils for my bikes, still have some around. Available in several sizes, it is the optimum restraint for built up cables.
Wiring "looms" are fabric wraps in a tubular form. Mostly seen on automobile restorations, it is only practical where the entire cable can be passed through the loom. Good for undercarriage work where long spans are exposed to the environment. But breakouts require the loom be interrupted. Think of it as flexible conduit. . .
There is a similar
copper braid, sort of like desoldering braid. But is is more for shielding than restraining cabling. It also is available in many sizes but is horrendously expensive unless it is specificaly needed. For short (<12") pieces, I usually just strip off a piece of co-ax. Mostly to avoid stocking something that is rarely used.
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