Ring roller

savarin

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H-M Supporter Gold Member
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Aug 22, 2012
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Finished of a smallish ring roller today.
It all started with a length of 40mm steel where I turned and cut these
rr1.jpg
6 Bearing holders, 6 imitation bearings and two threaded sections or hubs for the bicycle sprockets.
The imitation bearings sat in the holders that were bolted then welded to some 25x50x3mm steel box section.
The idea of the imitation bearings was for alignment and also so real bearings didnt get destroyed from the heat of the welding process.
The same 40mm dia steel was then used for the rollers by turning 75mm down to a 12mm shaft.
The bearings sit in the welded holders with the 12mm shaft passing through and bolted in place.

Bicycle sprockets were screwed and locked onto the bosses and slid onto the 12mm shafts, locked in place with two grub screws with the handle bolted to one of the hubs.
I opted to only have two driven rollers to avoid the complexity of the third roller being driven. (mainly because I couldnt work out an easy method)
all the fixings and unpainted parts are either stainless or brass including the tension screw.
rr3.jpg
I screwed an aluminium pad each side of the base part that sits in the vice to protect the paint and to make it a more secure grip.
The handle has positions for two places depending upon how much pressure is required to roll the metal.
rr2.jpg

This is the test ring that I think is almost as small as it will roll.
rr4.jpg
The next test will be two 12mm square aluminium bars rolled to a 303mm dia circle.
I'm hoping I can feed the end along side the ring so as to get a perfect circle without the flat ends.
I also need two 303mm dia rings in 0.9mm stainless, 40mm wide that will be bolted to the aluminium rings.
These are for the mirror cells in the giant binocular.
 
Really nice job!!
 
Finished of a smallish ring roller today.
It all started with a length of 40mm steel where I turned and cut these
View attachment 438011
6 Bearing holders, 6 imitation bearings and two threaded sections or hubs for the bicycle sprockets.
The imitation bearings sat in the holders that were bolted then welded to some 25x50x3mm steel box section.
The idea of the imitation bearings was for alignment and also so real bearings didnt get destroyed from the heat of the welding process.
The same 40mm dia steel was then used for the rollers by turning 75mm down to a 12mm shaft.
The bearings sit in the welded holders with the 12mm shaft passing through and bolted in place.

Bicycle sprockets were screwed and locked onto the bosses and slid onto the 12mm shafts, locked in place with two grub screws with the handle bolted to one of the hubs.
I opted to only have two driven rollers to avoid the complexity of the third roller being driven. (mainly because I couldnt work out an easy method)
all the fixings and unpainted parts are either stainless or brass including the tension screw.
View attachment 438013
I screwed an aluminium pad each side of the base part that sits in the vice to protect the paint and to make it a more secure grip.
The handle has positions for two places depending upon how much pressure is required to roll the metal.
View attachment 438012

This is the test ring that I think is almost as small as it will roll.
View attachment 438014
The next test will be two 12mm square aluminium bars rolled to a 303mm dia circle.
I'm hoping I can feed the end along side the ring so as to get a perfect circle without the flat ends.
I also need two 303mm dia rings in 0.9mm stainless, 40mm wide that will be bolted to the aluminium rings.
These are for the mirror cells in the giant binocular.
Looks great. Open ended makes life easier. Nice.
 
Two thumbs up.

That goal of no flat ends is a very elusive one. Takes a lot of adjustability/complexity to achieve. I decided to live and adjust to the shortcomings. But most of what I use my small homemade a large HF rollers for was wire or tubing. Flat stuff like what you are doing is whole ‘nuther ball o wax. My two rollers don’t even drive the two bottom rollers, just adjustable roller. The big HF hasn’t slipped and the smaller one has knurled drive roll to grab wire and works good.

thanks for posting your ring roller and good luck with you ultimate goals on the giant binocular.
 
Wow Savarin, excellent work as always!


That goal of no flat ends is a very elusive one. Takes a lot of adjustability/complexity to achieve. I decided to live and adjust to the shortcomings.

I had to make some rings a few years ago. I cobbled a makeshift roller together from scrap. I needed a "perfect" ring but was having a problem with the ends being slightly flat. I found if I TIG welded the ends together then put the joined ring back in the roller, it would remove the flat spot.
 
Wow Savarin, excellent work as always!




I had to make some rings a few years ago. I cobbled a makeshift roller together from scrap. I needed a "perfect" ring but was having a problem with the ends being slightly flat. I found if I TIG welded the ends together then put the joined ring back in the roller, it would remove the flat spot.
good tip. I'll try to remember that.

My problem is I don't have a tig. I guess I could gas weld the ends. I get you just need to fuse so there's no weld sticking up.

My other problem is 99% of what I do is rolling a curve, not rings.
 
Yes, you could use any welding method and grind it flush.
 
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