Rusty screws ??

[BRIAN]

I know you may be thinking What is Brian doing in the firearms section??

But I am seeking advice on freeing the rusty screws on my signal plstol.

My fault I put it away at the end of the season wraped in a flag, not thinking that it may be salty.
I have never taken it apart so this is new ground to me, I made new hand grips about 40 years ago but thas all.
so I think its time for a overhall, any help will be greatly apreacated.





Thanks in advance Brian.

 

[ScrapMetal]

Are you able to get KROIL over in the U.K.? That would be my first thing that comes to mind.

-Ron

 

[Tom Griffin]

Brian,

I think those will come out just fine with the right tools, since the frame appears to be brass. As with any firearm, you just need a hollow ground screwdriver that fits the slot well. Clamp the gun in a padded vise and using both hands and as much downward pressure as you can muster, take them out. Firearm screws are hard so the chances of twisting them off are slim. It they do, I think you have the ability to make new ones.

Tom

 

[swatson144]

2X PB nutbuster! Or go to the chemist and get some oil of wintergreen. (Methyl Salicitate). We used it by the case in the navy for rusty studs in the engine room. Navy penetrating oil was bought from the lowest bidder and wouldn't soak into a rag.

Steve

 

[jumps4]

I cant advise on rust for that id be afraid i'd remove the petina
how kewl is that gun
looks like it should be in a museum
if I had that I'd have to find a pro to fix it I know me i'd mar the screws or worse
post pics when you get it apart that is kewl
steve

 

[BRIAN]

OK, so far so good,
Soaking in freeing oil, gentle warming, and a good screw driver, worked wonders.



Now I have the next problem. I want to clean the steel parts and re blue them.any advice on the best approach will be welcome.
Altho this gun is an antique it is still part of my boat kit.
I like to use my things rather than just have them to look at.
Thanks to all for the help so far
.
Regards Brian.

 

[Redirish]

Brian, you're doing great, really a nice old piece. You might try Brownells Oxpho-Blue for the steel parts. I've used it for years, the best cold blue I've ever tried. Gives a good color, and wears well. No, I'm not connected to Brownells. Hope this helps.)

 

[jumps4]

I'm hoping you really never need to use that lol
steve

 

[BRIAN]

HI Steve
So far I have only used it once to warn off a boat that was heading to mow me down,(a white flare at night realy gets the attention that a lamp cant)
I am wondering that if I use Phospheric acid to convert the rust will it upset the bluing process ?
Also I can do hot blue using the salt bath that I use for clock parts, It cant go over blue temperature But will this afect the heat treatment.
Regards Brian.

 

[Tom Griffin]

Brian,

Phosphoric acid will remove the bluing.

If you want to try to remove the rust without damaging the original bluing, use electrolysis. Connect the parts to the negative electrode of a 12V DC supply and immerse them in a weak electrolyte of water and washing soda (1 tablespoon/gallon) using a stainless anode. A steel or stainless container also works well as an anode if you are careful to not let the parts touch the sides. That will remove the rust without affecting the bluing, although if the parts are very rusty the bluing will be trashed anyway. If everything is hooked up right there will be fine bubbles coming off the parts. If any of the rust is heavy, you may need to scrub off the black crud that forms on the parts to re-expose the surface, so the process can continue.

Tom