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TonimusMaximus

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If anyone wants a set of the gears, let me know and I’ll get you in contact with the guy who did mine. He did them for $20 a set. I’m not affiliated with him, and they’re not perfect, but for $20 they are great.
 

WCraig

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they’re not perfect, but
What is 'not perfect' about them? Fit to the shaft? Mesh?

I'm still curious about the printing details. Can you ask the guy what material they were printed with? PLA? Also, what percentage infill and how many shells? I only know a little about 3D printing but I would guess that extra shells would seriously strengthen the teeth and keyway.

Craig
 

TonimusMaximus

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There’s a slight variation in tooth angle of the printed result. Not part of the file, but the printer. A few teeth, instead of being parallel to the axis, are maybe 1° or two off. Everything else is good. Shaft is a couple thou undersized, but I was able to open it up by hand with a 1/2” twist drill bit. It was printed I. PLA with 20% fill for red and 50% in blue.
 

TonimusMaximus

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I got a "new" right hand leg to replace the broken one I had. Picking up a bucket of evaporust tomorrow. Then I just have to wait for Clausing to send my bearings.
 

TonimusMaximus

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Update: All the small parts have been through a big bucket of EvapoRust. The large parts are sitting in 30 gallons of bad 7-11 diesel. (Best friend almost destroyed his motor with a batch of diesel from a 7-11 that had a high water content and gasoline in it...)

I bought a treadmill for $10 and gutted it. I have a working motor, controller and dashboard. I found plans for a PWM controller based on 555 timers that I am going to build. Here's what gave me the idea to make the PWM controller: http://el34world.com/Misc/Cnc/TreadmillMotor1.htm

This is the pcb layout i came up with. I should fit nicely on the prototyping boards I have. For those following along at home, somewhere on either side of R2 will be a momentary NC switch. TP1 is the negative connection, TP2 is positive, and the floating end of R7 is the PWM signal out.
Untitled by bigangryscot, on Flickr
 

TonimusMaximus

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Got a shipping notice from Clausing! I need to break out the o-scope and check my PWM circuit. Built it on a breadboard this morning and got nothing out of it. Time to break out the instrumentation.
 

T Bredehoft

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Just a suggestion, print up some new banjos, ditto common doubled gears. Have banjos ready for often used gearings.
 

TonimusMaximus

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I had to look it up, as my automotive background makes banjo mean something different to me. Never even occurred to me to make a new banjo bracket. Good idea for when I eventually get my own printer. I'll have to go through many iterations before it is right, but that'd be a good part to draw up.
 

wa5cab

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It might be good to learn that they are (or aren't) but I would have to see one after 5 or 10 years operation to be convinced that currently available consumer grade materials are stiff enough to print a usable banjo out of.

And incidentally, the "official" title most used by Atlas for the banjos is "Change Gear Bracket".
 

bama7

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I ordered a set of Change Gears yesterday. Gray was the color of material he had loaded, so I get gray ones, which makes me happy.:)
 

phubbman

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Nice project. I rebuilt one of those a short while ago. It's a very serviceable little lathe. I'm learning a lot on mine.

I mentioned this on another thread, but if you need a chuck, Taig Tools has 1"x 8tpi scroll chuck's on clearance. It's the standard Taig chuck, but they ran a custom batch with this threading and got stuck with them. Now they're on clearance a $20 each. They come 3 jaw or 4 jaw, 3-1/4" diameter. It's a good size for this lathe. I have one of each - very good quality with replaceable aluminum soft jaws (also available from Taig should you need more). If you're interested, check their website. It's a small family run US company. I have no affiliation, just a satisfied customer who has one of their manual bench top mills and various tooling bits and pieces.

I've always wondered how well the 3d printed change gears work. The originals were Zamak (zinc, aluminum, cadmium alloy, if i recall) - not as strong as steel, but seem to work just fine on a small lathe like this. The plastic is soft too, but then again, it's only a 6" lathe. The forces aren't that great.

Yep - what others have said about over tightening the headstock bushing clamp screws. My lathe came with a broken headstock due to cranking it down too much. Luckily, i found a replacement headstock casting for little money and got it up and running quickly and easily. Once the casting breaks here, there's not much you can do to fix it. Replacement is the best practical option.

The one other thing you might want to keep your eyes open for would be a spare set of half nuts for the lead screw assembly. They're often available on ebay, but often are very worn. Look for ones that are new or still have crisp, non rounded threading.

This is my first lathe, and i'm using it to learn on and support my other hobbies making and fixing things. Depending on the work you'll be doing with it, you might want to make some tooling or accessories of your own. The first thing i made was a carriage stop with a 2" travel dial indicator on it. I also got a set of ER25 collets and an MT2 collet chuck for the spindle. I did make up a quick drawbar for that chuck, but will soon make an ER25 chuck that threads onto the spindle so that longer pieces can extend through the hollow spindle. The MT2 taper chuck won't allow that. I also picked up an OXA sized quick change tool post to replace the rocker/lantern stock tool post. This machine is not really designed around using carbide tooling, but there's plenty of HSS tooling that fits the qctp tool holders. Also, the HSS tooling is cheaper, and i can sharpen it with my standard bench grinder - no special sharpening equipment needed.

I also think i'll make larger cross feed dials that are easier to read. The stock ones are very small, and the markings on mine are difficult to read. And, i'll very likely make a mount so that i can attach my rotary tool to my compound and use it like a tool post grinder. I have a little Proxxon model with a 20mm ring machined on the casting near the spindle. This could work really well. I've seen others set up a mount for a Dremel flex shaft that would work the same way.

You might want a chip tray once you start using the lathe. Cafeteria trays work well if you get one the right size. I picked up a tray at IKEA for a few bucks that works perfectly.

Have fun with you project. Keep us up to speed with your progress.

paulh
 
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WCraig

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Taig Tools has 1"x 8tpi scroll chuck's on clearance. It's the standard Taig chuck, but they ran a custom batch with this threading and got stuck with them. Now they're on clearance a $20 each. They come 3 jaw or 4 jaw, 3-1/4" diameter. It's a good size for this lathe. I have one of each - very good quality with replaceable aluminum soft jaws (also available from Taig should you need more).
Too bad those are 1-8 threaded. If they were 1-10 to fit my Atlas 618, ...

Craig
 

TonimusMaximus

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I mentioned this on another thread, but if you need a chuck, Taig Tools has 1"x 8tpi scroll chuck's on clearance. It's the standard Taig chuck, but they ran a custom batch with this threading and got stuck with them. Now they're on clearance a $20 each. They come 3 jaw or 4 jaw, 3-1/4" diameter. It's a good size for this lathe. I have one of each - very good quality with replaceable aluminum soft jaws (also available from Taig should you need more). If you're interested, check their website. It's a small family run US company. I have no affiliation, just a satisfied customer who has one of their manual bench top mills and various tooling bits and pieces.
paulh
Holy smokes! I live like 15 miles from them! I'm definitely going to have to go down there and pick those up. Thanks for the tip!
 

wa5cab

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At that price, I would buy several of each. The only down side according to PaulH is that the 4-jaw is a scroll type instead of an independent type. Sooner or later, you are going to need one of the latter type.
 

phubbman

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Yep, the 4 jaw is a scroll chuck. But, one benefit of the aluminum soft jaws is that it's incredibly easy to grind the jaws to center them when you need that level of precision, or to custom modify the jaws for the task at hand.

Not that it replaces a 4 jaw independent jaw chuck, but you can still do quite a bit. At least get started making chips and curls.

paulh
 

wa5cab

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Yes, for example if you need to machine a piece of square bar, an independent jaw 4- jaw will take a lot of extra time to set up .
 

rwm

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That's going to be a nice little machine! But you are going to need a bigger one to make larger rockets! I have been to several high powered rocket launches and enjoyed them very much. If any readers have interest, I highly recommend going to one. There is one next weekend here in Nascarolina.
Robert
 

markba633csi

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I would use the toughest materials you have for printing the two tumbler gears- lot of forces acting on those, fastest wearing zamak gear on the 6"
and unfortunately the hardest to find used in good condition
M
 

pgmrdan

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Regarding the Taig chucks, I got one of each delivered today. They fit my Craftsman 1" x 8 tpi spindle perfectly. The part numbers are 1050 ATLA and 1060 ATLA.

 

rwm

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Where can I buy one???
R
 

phubbman

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Where can I buy one???
R
Go to Taig Tools website. Look under "accessories" (left hand menu option).
The 3 jaw chuck is item number 1050 ATLA. The 4 jaw chuck is 1060 ATLA.
Their contact info is at the top right corner of their home page.
They don't have an on-line commerce site. Call them up - super friendly people with quick response time. They'll take your credit card over the phone, or you can mail in a check.
I believe domestic shipping is $10.
 
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jwmay

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Mrpete222 has a video of testing a printed gear on an Atlas 12' lathe. Just in case you're not interested in watching it, the end result, as I remember was that the spindle stalled before he was able to break it. I had some gears printed for my 10" Atlas, but am not done putting it back together to try them out.
 

mattthemuppet2

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the OP on this thread might be able to help:
 

mattthemuppet2

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looking good! To get you up and running without a compound, you could always mount an appropriately sized block with hole in the bottom to fit over the post on the cross slide. Something i've thought of doing to up the rigidity when i don't need to do angles
 
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