Saving a Craftsman 6" 101.07301

WCraig

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This toolholder came with my Atlas 618.

SolidToolholder.jpg

The compound is removed before mounting this. The set screws at the bottom push on angled brass pins that engage the tapered boss on the cross-slide. Crude but it does increase rigidity. I now keep my parting tool in this holder and it parts off steel without chatter. Much better than if I hold a parting tool in the QCTP on top of the compound.

Craig
 

phubbman

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The compounds do pop up on the bay fairly regularly. Though most sellers there seem to think these lathes are made of gold.
 

TonimusMaximus

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I'm likely going to do something similar to the setup Craig got. I'll keep an eye on eBay for someone who doesn't think the compound is worth more than a halfway decent QCTP setup.
 

wa5cab

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Bear in mind that although the turret tool post mounted directly to the cross slide is fine for turning, it won't cut decent threads.
 

TonimusMaximus

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Almost done. I got a pair of Taig 3" chucks, and I'll have a compound on the way shortly. I plan on getting a Shars 0XA QCTP set, then it is on to acquire tooling. I still need to make up my mind on which chuck to get when I want to push the limits and turn larger diameter stuff.
 

Janderso

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Looking great!
How do you change the belt?
I have one of those.
I'll take some pics.
 

RobertB

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How do you change the belt?
You have to remove the spindle.
You can use a link belt to avoid that, but I've only replaced my belt once in 25 years so that isn't that big of a deal.
It's also a good opportunity to do a thorough cleaning and lubing.
 

Janderso

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I was afraid of that.
Good time to get to know this little fellow.
 

TonimusMaximus

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I plan on using a twist link belt for the final drive. I expect that since I'm doing this for the first time, there's going to be a few iterations I have to go through.
 

RobertB

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I was afraid of that.
It's actually pretty easy. The only difficult part is getting the bull gear woodruff key out. If it hasn't been removed in 50 years it can be stubborn and you have a very narrow space to work in to remove it. There is a good tutorial here: https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/6-atlas-spindle-removal-bearing-replacement.6310/

(There is a minor error in the tutorial where he says the screw above the lock pin is for oil. This screw actually retains the lock pin detent ball and spring, but otherwise is a very good tutorial.)
 

wa5cab

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There is another error in the first sentence of the instructions, but as you have a sleeve bearing lathe, it doesn't actually affect you. But just for the record, the mistaken belief that the early Atlas 618's had sleeve bearings is just an old wive's tale. There is no truth to it, as the Atlas 618 used the same Timken bearings from the first to the last one made. Some people just confused the Craftsman 101.07301 with the Atlas 618 because a lot of the parts in both lathes are the same.
 

mattthemuppet2

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Wooo! I have a complete compound on the way, courtesy of a very generous price from RobertB.
nice! glad that worked out well.

As for the link belt, personally I would avoid it and use a decent 3/8" v-belt. Yes, it's a pain to remove the spindle, back gear and countershaft to change the belt, but I was not impressed by a link belt on my 618. In fact I don't have link belts on any of my machines anymore, though they are handy for sizing belts at least. Main issue I had was poor grip, so the belt would slip way too easily, especially in the lowest ratio and even if I tensioned the beejeesus out of it. It also wore the countershaft pulley quite badly, possibly in part to excess tension. Both problems I put down to the minimal amount of contact the link belt makes with the pulleys as it doesn't sit far into the V. I went to the extreme of remaking the spindle and countershaft pulleys to use a poly-V belt, which is superior to a standard V belt, but that was one of the best things I did with that lathe. Admittedly, I should have got off my butt and just replaced the link belt, but I figured it would "incentivise" me to finish the mod. Depending on your time frame that worked admirably (completed in less than 5 years) or terribly (completed in less than 5 years) :)
 

Janderso

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I pulled the old girl out of the cabinet.
There is something going on with the spindle puller sun gear.
This seems pretty complicated.
Any experts in the Sacramento area?
Pics if you care.
 

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RobertB

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That is a different model altogether, so the previous tutorial is not applicable. That is a Craftsman "80" made by Double A company rather than the Atlas made models. Your model has the planetary or epicyclic back gear assembly.

You can find most available info on yours here: http://www.lathes.co.uk/craftsman/page5.html
 
Last edited:

Janderso

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RobertB,
Thank you for the link. I know nothing about this little lathe. The planetary gears are interesting.
I need to spend some time with this machine, I just don't have any thing called time right now.
Maybe in a few years. It's in good shape.
Thanks again, I really appreciate it.
 

wa5cab

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Janderso,

You will find the factory manual (such as it is) on the 109.21270 in Downloads. It's in the AA Manuals folder, not the Atlas one. You will also find some drawings done 20 odd years ago by Lionel Weightman.
 

Nogoingback

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looking good! To get you up and running without a compound, you could always mount an appropriately sized block with hole in the bottom to fit over the post on the cross slide. Something i've thought of doing to up the rigidity when i don't need to do angles

+1 on a solid plinth. Small Atlas machines would benefit from the improved rigidity and it would get you going until you can find
a compound. Unless you have a job that needs the compound, you're better off with a solid mount.
 

TonimusMaximus

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+1 on a solid plinth. Small Atlas machines would benefit from the improved rigidity and it would get you going until you can find
a compound. Unless you have a job that needs the compound, you're better off with a solid mount.
I have the lower swivel already and the compound I have on the way (should be delivered today) has a lower swivel with it. As such, I'm going to take the lower swivel that I have and drill/tap the top for the qctp. The post will be directly mounted to the swivel and changing it out for the compound will essentially be tool-less.
 

TonimusMaximus

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Made a cleaner PWM control board that actually worked this time. I’m glad I’ve got a tiny oscilloscope. The second 555 timer I put in the circuit was DOA, and I couldn’t figure out why I wasn’t getting the output I expected. Checked with the ‘scope and I had the expected output from the first chip. Replaced the second with another and I got my signal. The hardest time I had was adjusting the pwm timing resistors. Each MC-2100 board is a little different and each set of cheap ceramic caps are different. Took me about an hour to fine tune the value of the timing resistor. Works now, though.

Untitled by bigangryscot, on Flickr
Untitled by bigangryscot, on Flickr
 

mattthemuppet2

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cool beans! Very neat work on the PWM generator for running the MC2100, looking forward to the finish product. The sooner you can get that onto a table the better as it wouldn't take much to tip that over or knock it off the barrel.
 

RobertB

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Nice looking compound you got there ;)

Is that an old Nova I spy in the top right corner of the second pic?
 

WCraig

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That's a cool 3-jaw chuck. Did you buy that somewhere?

Craig
 

TonimusMaximus

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That is my best friend’s ‘63 Nova. Lots of hours in that car.

The chuck is from Taig Tools. Got a 3 jaw and 4 jaw from them per phubbman’s recommendation. 1x8 tpi.

Untitled by bigangryscot, on Flickr
 

TonimusMaximus

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After I get to making chips, I plan to make a proper pin spanner for the chuck and then make some harder jaws. I'll make some two step jaws out of steel so I can grab larger diameter stock.
 

wa5cab

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FWiW, all solid jaw 3-Jaw chucks should come with two sets of jaws. The so-called outside set is for holding parts larger than about half the diameter of the chuck. Unfortunately, the outside set often gets lost, especially if the seller of a used chuck isn't the original owner.
 
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