Setting Up For A Radius Cutter

nopriors

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I like to round over edges on parts I make and when using a radius cutter I always end up going to far
into the wall of the part. Is there a way to zero out the cutter so I can use my DRO to avoid that. There has to be some obvious solution I that have overlooked. Thanks in advance for any responses.
Peace
Greg
 
Here is how I do it. First I touch of the outer top edge on the top of the part. And zero the Z axes. Then touch of the side on the Y axes. and zero the Y axes Then stay 2 or 3 thou from zero. I hope that makes since.
 
Here is how I do it. First I touch of the outer top edge on the top of the part. And zero the Z axes. Then touch of the side on the Y axes. and zero the Y axes Then stay 2 or 3 thou from zero. I hope that makes since.
:+1:
 
Here is how I do it. First I touch of the outer top edge on the top of the part. And zero the Z axes. Then touch of the side on the Y axes. and zero the Y axes Then stay 2 or 3 thou from zero. I hope that makes since.
Thanks. I'll give that a try.
 
You are doomed if you do not want this artifact to appear. The human eye can see less then .001" lines at the tangent on a bright finished part.
Doomed if I do and doomed if I don't. The thing that drives me crazy about these cutters is to my eye they appear to curve back in on the bottom or top wall. Both the cutters were ordered from McMaster-Carr.
 
You are doomed if you do not want this artifact to appear. The human eye can see less then .001" lines at the tangent on a bright finished part.


If I am going to polish the part I blend every thing in first. Some times I go deep enough to have a ridge on the top and side for the looks. And then some times it was an after thought.:laughing:
 
Doomed if I do and doomed if I don't. The thing that drives me crazy about these cutters is to my eye they appear to curve back in on the bottom or top wall. Both the cutters were ordered from McMaster-Carr.


If they do in fact curve back I would send them back as they shouldn't.
 
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