Setting-up the PM 1236-T Lathe

[tredding]

@tredding i had a solution for my 12 X37 that you'd might appreciate. I had to fabricate my own stand, and so I made some blocks under the headstock that would take 1" NF bolts, I found some 4.25 inch phenolic wheels with a 1" bore. When I have to move the lathe, all I do is lever up, put the wheels on, and then drive it across the shop like a shopping cart. The tailstock end is easily light enough to lift and push/pull, even for an old guy like me.

-- if you are interested I could take a pic or 2 and post here.

As I have read many times here, "we like pictures". Sure, if it is not too much of a bother, I would enjoy seeing the pictures. Hopefully, I will not have to lift anything when moving my lathe. This forum has been a great source of information and will cause me to rethink the layout of my shop. So, moving to improve operation will likely happen. Hopefully, it will be an uncommon activity.

 

[Dabbler]

Here it is. sorry for the low def.

 

[tredding]

1.) Outriggers with Casters

This is what comes with the lathe: a cast iron puck, a bolt and a nut.

View attachment 285613

Here is a configuration that I considered from a piece of equipment at work

View attachment 285617

That arrangement was appealing because it lowered the CG of the cabinet but I wanted casters that I could adjust the leveling foot with a wrench rather than a plastic wheel that most of the casters have, in addition the bent arrangement of the outrigger would get in the way of the cabinet doors. I went with straight outriggers. I used three 1/2”x 4”x23” pieces of 1018 cold finish steel flat. The cabinet is 15” wide so this gave me a 4” x 4” area extending from the cabinet to attach the casters. All the holes are 3/8” except the larger hole for the M16 leveling foot which is 3/4”. The outriggers were then painted and attached to the base. The holes on the base are a different size and offset a bit so you have to take that into consideration when measuring. I used a spacer to account for the different diameters:

View attachment 285618. View attachment 285619

View attachment 285620. View attachment 285621

I used Carrymaster ALC1000 casters. The outriggers were attached to the cabinet and the casters attached to the outriggers using 3/8” x 1-3/4” bolts.

View attachment 285622. View attachment 285623

View attachment 285624. View attachment 285625

I used 2” fender washer and an M16 coupler nut that had been cut in half to act as a lock nut on the leveling foot.

View attachment 285627. View attachment 285629

I am then able to make fine adjustments of the leveling foot with a small wrench and then secure the position with a larger wrench on the coupling nut.

View attachment 285630. View attachment 285631

I added some equipment pads to help keep the lathe from walking but I think they are overkill. The machine is very solidly in position without them.

View attachment 285632. View attachment 285633

This added about 5” to the cabinet height. The PM puck-and-bolt is about 1-1/2” so there is a net gain of about 3-1/2” over the puck-and-bolt configuration.

View attachment 285634

That’s it for the outriggers. Tomorrow I will try to do the equipment mounts and hopefully the day after the baseplate.

This is a great thread. This is the caster I installed on the PM-728VT stand and plan to install on the PM-1236 when it arrives in November 2022. Four for about $45 at Amazon. Four support 2200 pounds, so six should easily support the PM-1236 and stand. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09V6GCLXN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[tredding]

Mikey, the baseplate is threaded and the jack screw goes into those threads. When the screw is advanced upward it lifts that portion of the tailstock footing. For example, when I was leveling the lathe the side of the tailstock toward the operator was a bit low. I loosened the nut on the anchor bolt, lifted that corner by advancing the jack screw then re-tightend the nut on the anchor bolt. I repeated this is small increments until the lathe was level, then I tightened the lock nut on the jack screw. This took a total of about a quarter turn on the jack screw. The pointed end of the jack screw is not used. I used jack screws because they have a nice fine 1/2-20 thread, they are hardened and I can use the small hardened rod that comes with them to make adjustments by hand. Also, they are only $8 from Starrett. I didn’t know Starrett made anything for $8. I hope this helps.

Is it leveling or combating twist? Terry - W6LMJ