1.) Outriggers with Casters
This is what comes with the lathe: a cast iron puck, a bolt and a nut.
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Here is a configuration that I considered from a piece of equipment at work
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That arrangement was appealing because it lowered the CG of the cabinet but I wanted casters that I could adjust the leveling foot with a wrench rather than a plastic wheel that most of the casters have, in addition the bent arrangement of the outrigger would get in the way of the cabinet doors. I went with straight outriggers. I used three 1/2”x 4”x23” pieces of 1018 cold finish steel flat. The cabinet is 15” wide so this gave me a 4” x 4” area extending from the cabinet to attach the casters. All the holes are 3/8” except the larger hole for the M16 leveling foot which is 3/4”. The outriggers were then painted and attached to the base. The holes on the base are a different size and offset a bit so you have to take that into consideration when measuring. I used a spacer to account for the different diameters:
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I used Carrymaster ALC1000 casters. The outriggers were attached to the cabinet and the casters attached to the outriggers using 3/8” x 1-3/4” bolts.
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I used 2” fender washer and an M16 coupler nut that had been cut in half to act as a lock nut on the leveling foot.
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I am then able to make fine adjustments of the leveling foot with a small wrench and then secure the position with a larger wrench on the coupling nut.
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I added some equipment pads to help keep the lathe from walking but I think they are overkill. The machine is very solidly in position without them.
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This added about 5” to the cabinet height. The PM puck-and-bolt is about 1-1/2” so there is a net gain of about 3-1/2” over the puck-and-bolt configuration.
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That’s it for the outriggers. Tomorrow I will try to do the equipment mounts and hopefully the day after the baseplate.