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Shaper vise

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Downwindtracker2

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#1
We all know a shaper vise is different than a milling machine or drill press vises. But shapers are rare animals and from what I've seen ,their vises are extinct around here. I have a 1950s 6" shop built baby shaper that I'm completing. What kind of problems will I run into using a 4" POS Chinese Kurt style vise?
 

f350ca

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#2
It should work fine. I used a Palmgren vice which is little more than a heavy drill press vice on my 7 inch Logan. If the cut got REAL heavy the work would slip and save breaking something.


I've been using a 6 inch Taiwanese vice in the 16 inch shaper I have now. Would like to get a bigger one though.

Greg
 

Reeltor

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#3
I am in the same boat as you, found a 16" shaper that I have just got running but haven't made any chips with yet.
Adam Booth aka ABom79 just bought a Shars vise for his 14" shaper; I don't think he has posted how the vise worked under the load of the shaper.

Greg was posting as I was getting the link; I have a palmgren vise on the mill that I just moved to the shaper.

Mike
 

Uglydog

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#4
This simple vise plan cane out of popular mechanics, and was presumably a planer vise.
Might work?

Daryl
MN
Shaper Vise popular-mechanics-vol-037-1922-03-p462-pdf505-adjustable-planer-vise-image.png
 
Last edited:

Downwindtracker2

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#6
On my Chinese vise. I bought it on sale from BusyBee (Canadian Grizzly)a number of years back to use on the drill press. When I opened the box I realized it was too heavy and awkward, so it stayed in the box until that someday mill. The mill/drill came with a nice Japanese 5" conventional milling vise, so it stayed in the box until I got the shaper.

-the swivel plate was uneven and out of parallel, it was trued?? on a shaper
- the down wedging ball was very rough and so was the socket it fit into
- one of the jaws varies .007 in thickness ,which I haven't trued yet.
- and jaw heights were different
-the screw isn't an acme ,rather just a metric? thread

I think I paid $79.99 but that was a while back. The vise bed itself is parallel to the bottom, within a thou or so. Which I would call good.

I drilled the swivel plate to use as an adapter and slotted the vise for when I just use it . They just fit. But they eat height.

A shaper vise is low and wide, with the screw being anchored in the stationary jaw, unlike a milling machine vise. They also use the table as the swivel plate.
 

Ulma Doctor

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#7
here is a pdf for building your own vise, if you like the challenge!
 

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vocatexas

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#9
That IS a shaper vise. Thanks! I'll see if I can contact him and get him to ship it.
 

vocatexas

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#10
Thanks, Steve! Snagged it! I've only seen one other Atlas shaper vise come up for sale that I can remember. It was on E-bay and was pretty beat up. This one looks to be in decent shape. It's got to beat the crappy little drill press vise I've been using on it.
 

C-Bag

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#12
Like has been noted, even the standard shaper swivel vise eats height clearance. I'm in a pickle right now as the piece I want to shape is 3" tall and it's just a little to tall to fit in my stock Atlas vise.After watching the Rudy K shaper vid I've been contemplating one like he has. It's a two piece and uses the table as the base. Most of the two piece milling vises I've seen are 6 or 8". So too big IMHO for the 7b. My first attempt is to make a backstop out of some Durabar that will clamp parallel to the cutter to the middle t-nut slot and use slots and mill clamps on the side of the table for the actual clamping pressure on the work. That should gain me 3" at least!
 

f350ca

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#13
I have two pieces of 1x2 flat bar that I use as a table top vice. My table has 3 slots the fixed bar gets clamped to one, the second has set screw coming through the side. It gets bolted to one of the other slots and the set screws clamp the work. Tough to get the work flat to the table but once clamped it stays there.

Greg
 

Ulma Doctor

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#14
if you were so inclined you could make or buy a set of toe clamps.
they will securely force the work against the box, without the need for a vise.
you should also use a blocker when using toe clamps too, as a precaution .
 

Reeltor

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#15
if you were so inclined you could make or buy a set of toe clamps.
they will securely force the work against the box, without the need for a vise.
you should also use a blocker when using toe clamps too, as a precaution .
Mike are you referring to fixture clamps similar to the ones from Mitee Bite or hold downs like the ones from Starrett?
I have read that the toe clamps have enormous holding strength, but I think in industry they are used primarily with end mills and rotational forces. I am wondering if they will hold up to the forces of a shaper ram. I have recently learned how easy it is for the shaper to push the work around, you can imagine how--- LOL



http://www.starrett.com/metrology/product-detail/54A#Features

Starrett provides downloadable drawings and modeling.
 

C-Bag

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#17
Thanks Ulma Doctor, there were some really interesting clamps in those pics. Going to have to keep on the lookout for toe clamps.
 

C-Bag

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#18
Wonder how effective these are? I could do that :)

image00.jpg
 

Reeltor

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#19
The clamping info is appreciated. I always want to take a big bite with the horizontal mill and adequate clamping can be a problem. Now that I have a shaper up and going, I will need to make and/or buy some clamps.
To get back to the OP's original question. I am considering buying a set like this or just making the moving jaw part. Two piece vice, seems like they would be ideal for using on a shaper. This is a 6" vice from Grizzly for $129.95.

 

C-Bag

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#20
That's a bit like Rudy K's vise is like and what I originally found. Problem is the 6" is the smallest and while this doesn't sound like a problem for you I think it's probably to big for my 7b where the table is only 6x6 1/2". The original vise is only 4", and unfortunately the smallest 2pc vise is 6".
 

Reeltor

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#21
That's a bit like Rudy K's vise is like and what I originally found. Problem is the 6" is the smallest and while this doesn't sound like a problem for you I think it's probably to big for my 7b where the table is only 6x6 1/2". The original vise is only 4", and unfortunately the smallest 2pc vise is 6".
Do a search for 2 piece vice, I know that I saw 3 & 4" ones when I originally searched for them. I think Shars might have them too
 

C-Bag

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#22
I've done several searches and Shars has only the 6 and 8". Same with Grizzley, EBay and craigslist.If you run into those smaller vises I'd sure appreciate a link. I've learned searches are not the same on different machines.
 

Ulma Doctor

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#23
i have not seen the 2 piece in 4" vise version. that doesn't mean they don't exist
i would snatch one up in a second.

there are ways to make simple 4" table vises using square stock and bolts
 

Reeltor

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#24
Apparently I was mistaken, I ran a new search and don't see anything smaller than the 6". I will check to see if I bookmarked the link. I remember seeing the vise and remarking to myself that 4" is too small for what I'm looking for. If I turn up a link I'll definitely post it.
sorry to get your hopes up
 

C-Bag

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#25
I just did another cruise of eBay and what caught my eye was some said 3 1/2 depth on the 6" vise.
 

Ulma Doctor

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#26
I just did another cruise of eBay and what caught my eye was some said 3 1/2 depth on the 6" vise.
that's a pretty nice opening and closing range for a 2 piece unit
 

C-Bag

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#27
I wasn't sure what "depth" meant. I'm still really intreagued by the toe clamps, but not ready to shell out the kind of dough they want for them. I could see how like the Te-Co are hard to make with the threaded dovetail setup.
 

Ulma Doctor

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#28

C-Bag

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#29
Yup, that's definitely the stuff. So do you think there's just one hold down bolt with the clamping pusher bolt (oh so technical) off set and rely on the bit of a protrusion into the table slot to keep it straight, or does that have two hold down bolts with the pusher bolt between them? Hard to tell with just a side view. But definitely got the brain cells poppin'.
 

Ulma Doctor

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#30
You can use long pieces of stock and crossdrill the stock and thread for the pusher bolts. You could then drill the anchor holes In the toe clamp and then bolt to the table with t-nuts or other means
 
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