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Sheldon Lathe Identification

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4gsr

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#31
ok is there some secret to getting out the roll pin on the cross feed clutch. i have tried damn near everything. broken several drills. bent several drifts and still have done little to remove the roll pin. Stopped today as frustration is setting in. thought of heating it a bit, but ........
Well, you can do what I did, put a big wrench on that little round nut gave it all I could until I busted the or sheared the roll pin off. But doing that I messed up the threads on the shaft. A mess indeed! The nut originally is a snug to tight fit to the thread on the shaft, almost like a stud in a old engine block.
Getting back to getting it apart. There is a 5/16" shaft that runs all the way from end to end in the ID of the main shaft. That works with the anti-lock mechanism that prevents the half nuts from being engaged while the power feed is being used. Once you get it out, locate that roll pin in the nut. Take a small pin punch, guessing a 3/32" punch. Drive this pin into the ID of the shaft. It should be short enough to fall into the ID of the shaft. Once that is done, back off the nut. It's right hand threads. May require Channel Locks or small pipe wrench to back off that nut. Lather you can use a file and remove all of the buger marks made from wrench.

Can you post some pictures of the clutch shaft assy and the nut on the end? Maybe it's a little different from mine?

I hope this helps. Ken
 
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BSchulz

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#32
I have removed the rod back when I first cleaned up the parts, actually the first one fell out on the floor and was wondering where it came from along with the spring and end cap........ neways. I have tried just about everything that I had in my shop but all I did was bend things and not move the pin. I have ordered hardened punches in the hopes that they will have better success than the soft ones i have, and I ordered cobalt drill bits (several) and will try to drill it out if the hardened punches have no better luck. I have no choice but to remove it as the bearing right behind the nut is in pieces. I had started to reassemble things, still waiting on the worm gear, but it should ship by the end of the week. and noticed that there was a lot of slop in the clutch gear and got to looking really close when the clutch is compressed and noticed that the thrust race was broken in 3 pieces and there seems to be some damage to the bearing side of the nut. I got to wiggling it around a bit and I now have all the balls and 1 piece of the race on the shop table........ so like the Pig I'm committed....... Not sure how loose the pieces are when not compressed, as the compound has similar movement just no where near as much.
I have ordered the new spring pins, and also ordered 1 size bigger in case I have to drill out to the next size (I think it will be 1/8") do you see any issue in drilling to 1/8"?
 

4gsr

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#33
Don't tell me the hole is not drill all the way thru. I don't think cobalt drill bits will chew thru a roll pin. With several, you'll get it out!
Personally, I would not go back with roll pins. Dab some red or blue Loctite on the threads and reassemble. There's really no adjustment on this end. All of the adjustment is from the other end when adjusting the clutch.
 

BSchulz

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#34
The hole is all the way through as I can see the end through the end of the nut, but I'll be damned if I can get it to move. Forgot to mention I also have carbide drill bits coming just in case the cobalt ones don't cut it. Loctite is a good idea. I'll have to see what the nut looks like from the damage I see as to what happens on the reassembly.
 

BSchulz

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#35
The hole is all the way through as I can see the end through the end of the nut, but I'll be damned if I can get it to move. Forgot to mention I also have carbide drill bits coming just in case the cobalt ones don't cut it. Loctite is a good idea. I'll have to see what the nut looks like from the damage I see as to what happens on the reassembly.
Got it apart with a little "Gentle persuasion" the spring washers are damaged and some have short pieces missing. Tried B&K and they are really proud of their parts. I am trying a company called Phoenix Specialty that makes spring washers to order I'll wait to see what their prices are before I decide what to do.
On another note the nut I was having problems with does not appear to be an interference fit as when I finally got the roll pin off I was able to remove it with little difficulty and now that it is all cleaned up I can turn it and position it by hand. I will probably reinstall a new roll pin as it turns so freely.
I have been looking in the documents and have not been able to find out what oil should go in the apron. Do you have any suggestions?
 

4gsr

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#36
What are you referring to as "spring washers"? Talking about the wavy springs that are between the clutch disk and spacers?

As for oil for the apron, use ISO 46 or if it has the oil pump for lubricating the ways, then way oil like Mobil Vactra way oil or equivalent. I use Chevron Way Oil, only problem, it only comes in 5 gal. buckets!
 

4gsr

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#37
B & K buys them from Carlyle Jameson. See my attachment where I bought the last ones from. Since these clutches run very slowly, probably can get by without them. Never thought of running the clutches with out them.
 

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BSchulz

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#38
What are you referring to as "spring washers"? Talking about the wavy springs that are between the clutch disk and spacers?

As for oil for the apron, use ISO 46 or if it has the oil pump for lubricating the ways, then way oil like Mobil Vactra way oil or equivalent. I use Chevron Way Oil, only problem, it only comes in 5 gal. buckets!
Thanks
Didn't see the additional posts. I don't have a way pump so ill stick with the 46.
 
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