Shop made fly cutter question

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dsclathe

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Hi everyone, I'm in the 20240217_160829.jpg20240217_160925.jpgprocess of finishing my fly cutter, but need a question answered before I proceed. So far things are going beautifully but need to know, Is there any leeway or allowance allowed for the slot that the tool sits in, or does it need to be a tight tolerance? Appreciate any insight, thanks
 
mmcmdl said:
Make sure the cutting edge side is on center , or at least close . The total width of the slot doesn't matter .
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Perfect, thank you. The cutter im using to make tge slot in single passes leaves the slot maybe a couple thou larger than the cutter body. Wanted to make sure that was ok. The set screws, I imagine, will be secure enough?
 
Here are some pictures of one I made two or three years ago. The design of mine appears to be different from the one you're making, but your question is relevant to both. The tolerance on the slot is 'snug' but nowhere near press-fit tight. The three set screws on the side tighten it sufficiently. Also, the top set screw on the cutter end allows for tweaking the angle of the cut. And like mmcmdl stated above, make sure your cutter is on the center line. Mine works quite well.

Regards

IMG_1467.JPGIMG_1468.JPGIMG_1470.JPGIMG_1471.JPG
 
dsclathe said:
Hi everyone, I'm in the View attachment 478993View attachment 478994process of finishing my fly cutter, but need a question answered before I proceed. So far things are going beautifully but need to know, Is there any leeway or allowance allowed for the slot that the tool sits in, or does it need to be a tight tolerance? Appreciate any insight, thanks
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why do you have your collet block raised on parallels. You want less stick out above the vise, that only increases it.
as far as I can tell you don't need them in.
 
woodchucker said:
why do you have your collet block raised on parallels. You want less stick out above the vise, that only increases it.
as far as I can tell you don't need them in.
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I've done that (where I normally wouldn't) just to span the gap between the ways in the vise if I needed a bottom reference - e.g. to establish a specific angle.

GsT
 
GeneT45 said:
I've done that (where I normally wouldn't) just to span the gap between the ways in the vise if I needed a bottom reference - e.g. to establish a specific angle.

GsT
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yes, but in this case there's more of a need to lower the part. An angle can be referenced off a square on the landing, to the side of the block. It doesn't have to be under it, the side is just as useful. The gap can be useful in this situation to lower the part even more. You are always trying to get the best holding you can. Not the most expedient setup.
 
woodchucker said:
yes, but in this case there's more of a need to lower the part. An angle can be referenced off a square on the landing, to the side of the block. It doesn't have to be under it, the side is just as useful. The gap can be useful in this situation to lower the part even more. You are always trying to get the best holding you can. Not the most expedient setup.
Click to expand...
Perhaps in an ideal sense. I quite often go with "rigid enough". If I'm not going to do any heavy hogging, or it's move convenient for me, I might easily stick something up more than ideal and just take light cuts. Outside of a commercial shop where time is everything, in a hobby shop you just need to balance your setup with your material removal. Cutting a slot in a flycutter is hardly precision work.

GsT
 
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