Show Us Your Shop Made Tooling!

hman

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Quickvise 1.jpgQuickvise 2.jpg

That's quite the two-tone paint job!!!

Congratulations, both for that and for a nice idea.

Quickvise 1.jpg Quickvise 2.jpg
 

Marco Bernardini

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I am not sure who I stole this from, but I really liked the idea. My big Clausing has a lot of torque and I have needed a quick vise for some of my drilling. So here is the evidence of my crime. :))

Randy
Randy, another idea, for bigger parts, would be to make two fences over T-nuts sliding in the T slots. In this way you'll have a big vise.
 

randyjaco

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Marco,
I pretty well have the bigger parts covered . That table and my existing vises will hold about anything. My problem was the smaller parts, which I would inevitably try to hold with my hands .

Randy
 

werowance

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here are some pics of my first machinist clamp i made probably a month ago.

used an etcho matic to etch my name in it, jaws were mystery steel bar i had, screws and tommy bars are drill rod o1, and the retainer piece is from an old brass door bottom kick plate. the brass screws are just some scrap 360 brass rod.

photo 1.JPG photo 2.JPG photo 3.JPG photo 4.JPG
 

zmotorsports

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here are some pics of my first machinist clamp i made probably a month ago.

used an etcho matic to etch my name in it, jaws were mystery steel bar i had, screws and tommy bars are drill rod o1, and the retainer piece is from an old brass door bottom kick plate. the brass screws are just some scrap 360 brass rod.
Very nice work. I like it.

Mike.
 

P.K.

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I must say there's a lot of cool stuff in this thread.

Here's one of my creations. It's a tool for chucking 2-stroke cylinder heads (Kawasaki H1) in a lathe in order to reshape squish band and combustion chamber.
The cylinder head registers on the tool using the bolt holes and is normally held onto the tool by the drawbar bolt going into the sparkplug hole.

Sometimes the sparkplug hole and part of the combustion chamber may have been welded shut, in which case the head can be held onto the tool using the small screws and washers instead. As soon as a new sparkplug hole has been drilled and tapped, the drawbar can be inserted and the screws and washers removed.

P.K.

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chevydyl

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heres a "decorative" plumb bob that I made for a relative. solid brass, think the brass cost me about $20, the rope holder is a 7/16 bolt that I turned the head and drilled through, also spotted the holes with a center drill. kinda neat I guess, its a fingerprint magnet so it should stay in a display.
plumb.jpg
plumbob.jpg

and here also is a valve seat installer for a Union Simplex pump, low volume high pressure TRI-E-glycol. co worker ruined a $250 dollar valve using a socket to install it lol. he asked if I could make a tool, that's what I came up with, stainless bolt stock for the handle/hammer end. 4140 for the business end, tig welded with 308 wire, it worked really well, I also fixed the valve, it had some indentations on the edge of the angle. the install tool is pin and box and welded
seatinstaller.jpg
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plumb.jpg plumbob.jpg seatinstaller.jpg seatinstaller2.jpg
 

yendor

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I must say there's a lot of cool stuff in this thread.

Here's one of my creations. It's a tool for chucking 2-stroke cylinder heads (Kawasaki H1) in a lathe in order to reshape squish band and combustion chamber.
The cylinder head registers on the tool using the bolt holes and is normally held onto the tool by the drawbar bolt going into the sparkplug hole.

Sometimes the sparkplug hole and part of the combustion chamber may have been welded shut, in which case the head can be held onto the tool using the small screws and washers instead. As soon as a new sparkplug hole has been drilled and tapped, the drawbar can be inserted and the screws and washers removed.

P.K.

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Kaw (H1) the Widow Maker. I had one back in the mid '80's. Just about the only bike that scared me.
It could wind up faster than anything I'd been on at the time.

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Jericho

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I made a lapping table for lathe tool bit after the are "sharpened" on a grinding wheel. The tool that I lapped will shave cuts off 4140 shaft shown finer than a hair.Made wheel from cheap disc brake. Started with a scrapped machinist magnet and built most of the apparatus to hold the bits from odd and ends.Need to get a better camera than a phone.

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chevydyl

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Nah, you just need a better phone, the pictures I show above were from my Samsung Galaxy S4/S5. The quality is less for a Web page than on the phone itself where the picture file is 4mb, compared to these are a couple hundred kb
Good use of the rotor
 

dlane

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8 , is your print/type extra small for any particular reason?. Starting August 2 2012
 
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zmotorsports

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Made a new dial indicator holder for my mill. I started with a small Noga holder and the clamp part of my indicol setup.

I started the adapter with a 30-degree taper which will reside in the Indicol spindle mount.
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I then tapped 6mmx1.0 threads into the adapter and threaded a rod to be used with a knurled thumbnut.
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Threading the stud.
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Stud threaded.
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Adapter, stud, small taper and knurled thumbnut shown.
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I then moved over to the milling machine and installed the adapter into a collet block to machine the flat on the adapter and to drill/tap the 5mmx.8 hole.
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Adapter completed and installed into the Indicol spindle mount bracket.
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NOGA NF61003 removed from the magnetic base and threaded onto the adapter and Indicol mount.
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Installed on spindle and tested.
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Works perfect and is rock solid. Much more rigid than the Indicol mount/arm ever was. This allows me to indicate on a part or in a hole without having to remove the tooling from the spindle. NOGA does manufacture a smaller arm like this one that has a 3/8" stem but you have to remove whatever tooling you are using and install either a 3/8" collet or drill chuck to accept the stem. This way there is no need to remove whatever tooling you have installed in the spindle.

Mike.
 

zmotorsports

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I needed some new screw jacks for my milling machine and didn't care for my cheapy import ones that I have been using. I decided to made some that had interchangable bases.

Completed.
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Broken down by components.
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I made a couple of different height bases for a range of adjustability.
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Nothing really hi-tech but they work and were fun to make. I am going to make a couple of different size bases when I get some more time. Probably one shorter and one a bit longer than what I have now. I would also like to get a piece of UHMW or hard wood to make a storage tray for them and have a place on my shelf next to the mill.

Mike.
 

Ugluk

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95mm boring head with an nt40 shank. Not the prettiest but tested and works well.
70 degree dovetails cut on the shaper of course.:)
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Each graduation moves it 0.02mm.
The arbor is a cut down horizontal milling arbor that was the wrong type form my support threaded M30*1, so I can't use it in reverse rotation.
 

FOMOGO

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Just ran through this, some very nice stuff being cranked out. Really liked the cyl head fixture. Mike
 

Ugluk

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Proof of the pudding, since we all like things that moves and makes noise.
The workpiece is a forming die for the hydraulic press that I needed when making the tumblers for the quick change gear box and since it worked so well forming 20*20 to a 100mm radius. I figuered I'll use the boring head to add 80 and 60mm radii for future needs. It was a lot more work milling and filing out the first 100mm radius before I made the boring head.

0,020" doc, 81rpm and 27mm/min roughing feed.
 

Ugluk

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Boring bars with dedicated holders. I've no shortage of 6mm broken taps and dull endmills and found these makes excellent cutting tips for boring bars.
The bars are quick and easy to make with relatively few operations and not very critical setups.DSC_0064.JPG
Holds the bit very firmly yet allows the cutting tip to protrude in front of the bar for internal facing of blind holes.
My go to boring bars for pretty much all my boring.
 

Ugluk

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A small project I did together with my 10yr old daughter. She's been nagging me for some time to be allowed to help me in the shop so we did this together from sketch to the finished and tested tools.
Two spring loaded tap guides, one with a 60* point and a smaller with a cup tip for the smallest taps made from drill rod and seamless tubing. I haven't been able to find any for sale around here, but they seem to be quite popular in america as the metal working youtubers use them all the time. I do too now.
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Ugluk

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Funds are low now with the house needing an addition so I stick to small useful stuff I need and already have materials for.
An indicator angle attachment of the type that seem so common in other parts of the world but I have never seen locally.
Some finicky turning, a bit of hand filing and other small scale operations but in the end a really simple little thing.
It seems everytime I've indicated a hole in a part in the four jaw I've had to set the indicator at an angle and without fail had it knocked away by a jaw or som other protrusion, but no more!
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Backwoods 96

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Re: Shop made tooling

I needed a way to cut a key-way in a pulley that I had made for my mill.
I dug through my scrap pile and this what I ended up with.
I machined the body out and bored the hole slightly undersized.
Once I got it mounted on the compound I centred it as best I could then
I mounted a boring bar in the chuck and and finished the bore to size as best I could, then
made up the bushings and pressed them in.The rest was pretty straight forward.

Terry

View attachment 35479 View attachment 35480 View attachment 35481 View attachment 35482
Very nice, Great way to broach ------------
 

MBuechle

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An R-8 flycutter I made to use 1/4" lathe toolbits I have laying around. They are China carbides but when ground seam to cut well. Next to it is a piece of CR steel after a .050 cut. This is a case of making a tool to make a tool as the ultimate goal here is to make a tangential tool holder for the AXA QCTP on my lathe. Budget for tooling is extremely limited right now so I'm having to make do with what I have.

R8Flycutter.jpe

R8Flycutter.jpe

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