Silver solder carbide to hhs

dlane

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Looking for the best combination of silver solder and flux for carbide to hhs at reasonable price preferably at amazon
Thanks.
 

Karl_T

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This query on practical machinist just a short while ago.

one good choice, also check out their how to videos
 

bill70j

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Here is an external RH boring bar with a carbide tip ground from a discarded TPG insert -- silver soldered to a CRS bar.

Like several others, I used Harris SAFETY-SILV 56 and STAY-SILV black high temp flux.

LH Boring Bar - 2.jpg
 

benmychree

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Carbide is best fastened to shanks by using sheet or tape silver solder, clean the shank and carbide, coat with flux, and heat from underneath the shank and on top of the carbide until the solder flows then press down on the carbide to seat it firmly on the shank until the solder solidifies. Silver/copper/silver sandwiches are made to fasten carbide to shanks, the copper is thin and provides a cushion between the carbide and the shank to lessen stress points. A lot of this was done where I used to apprentice/work, making up 1" square shank cutting tools for facing the ends of large diameter line pipe that was manufactured there.
 

benmychree

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I might add that they used plain old white (borax) flux and used a chlorinated solvent to degrease everything prior to assembly, I think that here and now, acetone or lacquer thinner would be OK, being careful with sources of ignition. Here where I live, chlorinated solvents such as trichloroethylene are banned as being cancer causing.
 

dlane

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whitmore

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Looking for the best combination of silver solder and flux for carbide to hhs ...
I'd consider using other-than-HSS under the carbide; the benefit of high-speed steel is that the
edge doesn't soften at high temperature, but if the edge is carbide, the steel under it won't ever
get hot enough to matter. Cold-rolled (1018 or 8620 ?) steel should be just as stiff, and less expensive.
The stick under the carbide should be machined for good mechanical fit to its holder, but HSS
would have to be ground.
 

dlane

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I'd consider using other-than-HSS under the carbide; the benefit of high-speed steel is that the
edge doesn't soften at high temperature, but if the edge is carbide, the steel under it won't ever
get hot enough to matter. Cold-rolled (1018 or 8620 ?) steel should be just as stiff, and less expensive.
The stick under the carbide should be machined for good mechanical fit to its holder, but HSS
would have to be ground.
Good point Whitmore I have a bunch of key stock will the safety silv 56% stick to it ? , for that matter what other metals will it stick to ?
 

Cooter Brown

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Look for Brazing Strip not brazing rod or wire.....


 

Downunder Bob

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We always made our own carbide tools by silver soldering the tips onto plain steel shanks never had any problems with that process. this was in the days before insert tips were available. we just got plain pieces of carbide in a couple of grades and 3 or 4 shapes and went from there, I don;t remember what the silver solder was exactly, but I think it was 2 or 3 %
 

Karl_T

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That brazing strip suggestion got me looking around. here's a product just for carbide on steel for tooling
 

bill70j

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Good point Whitmore I have a bunch of key stock will the safety silv 56% stick to it ? , for that matter what other metals will it stick to ?
The boring bar picture I posted above is carbide soldered to CRS with SAFETY-SILV 56 . Works fine.
 
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