So I have made a cut more threads. I did not take pictures, but I have some points:
(1) I noticed that you can (if needed) turn off power and rotate the chuck by hand. This either backward or forward. This came up for me because I was taking more aggressive cuts (.003") and the insert dug into the work (whereupon I hit the e-stop). If this happened near the end of the pass, I would finish the pass by hand.
(2) I gather that one needs to leave the split nut engaged throughout the entire process for cutting a metric thread. Although I was cutting an Imperial pitch, I previewed this technique. Long story short, I wish that I had made a wider groove near the chuck. With the PM-1030V, you have to power off before switching from forward to reverse. Also, with the PM-1030V you need to start at low RPM (e.g. 50). That being the case, I would want a groove of at least 3/8" wide, primarily for the trip back (i.e. spindle in reverse). Starting at 50 RPM, I needed time to turn up the RPM in order to get enough torque to be able to get back to the starting point, as this is essentially a spring pass with a cutting tool with a negative rake.
(3) Speaking of torque, I was cutting a 1'-8 (1" diameter, 8 TPI) thread in mild steel and the machine could really only handle a .002" DOC. Yes, I had a sharp carbide 60 degree insert and plenty of cutting fluid. That made for a lot of passes.
(4) I found that nailing the major diameter made for a better finished result. I was happy to see that there is a range. Even if you have a taper, you can get all ODs in that range.
(5) I found that having a hardware store bolt of the desired size makes for a good screw thread mike comparison before measuring my work on the machine, or a thread measuring wires comparison for that matter. I found myself using the measured value from the hardware store bolt way more often than the pitch diameter listed in the reference tables.
(6) I found that you can fine tune (with the pitch diameter, of course) how tightly you want the nut to thread on and off. Is this a stud for somebody who wants to thread it on by hand or are you after a tighter fit, for example?
(7) The deep thread in the 1"-8 required me to use the bench grinder to grind a relief in the steel insert seat because the 30 degree insert was not long enough to do the job. One could use a HSS tool bit to avoid this issue.