Slightly off Topic - Wrench Types and Techniques- Removing Stubborn Nuts

Quick update: The oil feed line was connected with a 21mm flare nut. I ordered a crows foot; we had 6 days of snow and ice which pretty much shut everything down, however it arrived yesterday. I went out today and:

1. removed the oil feed line. (the flare nut froze on the line and twisted the line off. a small medium recovery to find one.)
2. I was able to successfully remove the second of the 4 nuts holding the turbo to the manifold. A propane torch for 30 seconds absolutely helped.
3. I have successfully loosened 9 of the 12 bolts holding he manifold to the head.
a. the most forward bolt, #1 lower, is effectively shaded by the alternator wiring, requires careful attention not to break something.
b. the #3 lower is shielded by the turbo
c. #6 lower is just very difficult to reach. There is a locking tab that is difficult to bend back. The nut should not be too difficult.,

Plan for Sat:
1. heat and test the remaining 2 nuts - hopefully a standard box end will work.
2. bite the bullet and loosen #1 lower.
3. bite the bullet and loosen #6 lower.
(additionally I have to remove the exhaust pipe from the exhaust brake to the muffller. (required to have room to move parts around.)

If I get this done the turbo should be able to be removed. Once that is done and #1, #3 lower, and #6 lower are loosened the manifold should be a straight pull.
All in all this job is a 4- for difficulty and an 8 for access. (I do not believe the nuts and bolts in and of themselves are difficult. It is an access issue with limited tooling.

Thank you all. Your comments have offered encouragement to tear into something wholly new.
 
Well that was way overly optimistic. :(

Three of the 4 nuts / studs connecting the turbo to the manifold are loose, 1 nut and 2 studs. I have finally gotten a small wrench on the 4th nut, but there is way short purchase to loosen the nut. I will try reheating and try to find a longer wrench that will fit.

The remaining items should be patient apply correct force and move forward.

(frustrating: I watched a video of the removal of the 4th nut, the guy simply found a wrench and loosened the nut. My access is more limited, but not that different. I will try again. )
 
Weeks progress:
There were 4 remaining, above, 3 bolts on the manifold and 1 nut on the manifold - turbo connector. I ground a box wrench to fit between the turbo casting and one of the manifold bolts. That worked - I was able to loosen that bolt. I carefully worked and reworked the tab on the #6 manifold bolt and was able to loosen that bolt. I am stuck on the #1 lower manifold bolt and the remaining nut on the manifold - turbo casing.
My current thoutht is to focus on the #1bolt. I have two ideas, first the bolt shank is exposed for about 1.5 inches between a large portion of the casting where the bolt head connects to the manifold and the engine head. I will purchase a small hot torch and try to heat that shank and try to loosen with what force I can apply with an open end wrench. If this does not work I will cut that shank with a grinder and then pull the remaining 'stud' from the head with a stud puller.
(The only alternative to this is to start taking parts off the engine to allow better access. )
 
Sometimes it winds up being cheaper to turn it into a bigger job just to give yourself more room.
 
I admire your perseverance! I worked as a mechanic in a truck shop for several years.
When a motor-home pulled into the shop all the mechanics would hide.
 
Nutfarmer said:
When you put it all back together do yourself a favor an use some antisieze on the threads
Click to expand...

Does antisieze work on bolts that get really hot (turbo temperatures)? I have never tried it? Does the aluminum and copper stick around long enough to be effective after a couple years of high heat and cooling cycles?

I have read good reviews about induction heater nut heaters for removing stuck nuts.
 
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MikeInOr said:
Does antisieze work on bolts that get really hot? I have never tried it? Does the aluminum and copper stick around long enough to be effective after a couple years of high heat and cooling cycles?
Click to expand...

Not really, it does keep them from rusting, but it goes all hard and sticky. What does seem to work pretty good is Maalox (liquid heartburn stuff). I think it's a slurry of talc. Anyway, when it dries it does a real good job of preventing seizing, and heat doesn't seem to bother it.
 
MikeInOr said:
Does antisieze work on bolts that get really hot?
Click to expand...
Yes! Well, for some values of 'really hot'. I've used the regular silver (not silver-bearing) stuff on my truck engine and it was still there and working several years later.

GsT
 
With 60 years of turning wrenches, I have found that anti-seize is well worth using. Copper handles more heat than the aluminum based version, but both last a long time. While they dry out over time, the metallic particles lubricate the threads when the fastener is removed, and the joint is much more resistant to corrosion.

For higher heat and/or long term use, I prefer copper-based anti-seize.
 
The one time I saw a problem with anti-seize was when the aluminum based type used on the ford tapered spark plugs. The spark plugs locked in so bad that they broke off in the head. There are several grades of anti-seize. I believe the carbon based is for higher temperatures.
 
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