Yes, you were correct. It was a broken blade and I was just testing on tightening it...looks good--you could mill or file a couple flats on it to use a wrench to hold it while snugging your screw tight--it looks like your blade is on backwards for the teeth to cut, but my eyes may not be the best--Dave
Yeah, I need to cut a split slot, and aluminum was the only material in hand. Anyway, it did serve the purpose, will see how it goes. The worst case is to make another when I have tool steel in hand.Aluminum would be my last choice of material for an arbor, steel and even alloy steel is more to be desired.
Yes, it is backwards, cutting forces would unscrew it in use.looks good--you could mill or file a couple flats on it to use a wrench to hold it while snugging your screw tight--it looks like your blade is on backwards for the teeth to cut, but my eyes may not be the best--Dave
Actually, that saw is a screw slotter, not a slitting saw which would have way fewer teeth and consequently more chip space; screw slotters are made for shallow cuts as in straight slotted screw heads.I take it you are referring to a slitting saw and not a split saw ? Gotta go with steel and a good grade at that . Nice job though and it worked which is the main thing .
I don't really have much application of slitting, and I am hoping to get away with aluminum for my occasionally use. Plus, I left enough material so that I can reshape it necessary.Nice tool but what you don't want in a slitting saw arbor is too much run out, which will affect the cutting action.
Let us know how it works out. I've never seen an aluminum arbor.
The tool gets cut each time it is installed. Only a few thousandths are necessary to clean it up each time. That approach takes spindle runout and arbor runout completely out of the equation (within reason.)Interesting idea Bob but won’t that arbor now be specific to that mill? I wouldn’t do this to a nice commercial arbor, maybe a shop made?
Not poo pooing the technique. Just asking.