Small bandsaw eating through sawblades

[MrCrankyface]

Hello everyone!
I have a small bandsaw that I would really like, if it wasn't for the fact that it frequently throws the blade and the blades break really fast.
Generally either losing teeth or snapping at the welds or both in that order.
(Pretty much this machine but from another brand)
It's a small bandsaw that just sits on a table, the blades are 1435 x 12.5 x 0.65 mm if I remember correctly.
I've tried:
-Different blade tensions. Can't tell any difference here besides that high tension seems to help the blade track better.
-Different blades(big and small teeths etc). Big teeth will strip if I'm cutting narrow stock which is normal I think, but even the high TPI blades last a surprisingly short time no matter what I'm cutting.
-With lube/without lube. No lube seems to wear the blade faster and with lube seems to clog the drive system up, making it throw the blade...
-More/less down pressure when cutting. Longest durability seems to be with almost 0 down pressure, but also makes the cut take forever.

With a new blade I'll get maybe an hour of good cutting and then it's gonna start getting choppy(because missing teeth or similar).
This is when it starts throwing the blade of the wheels (which is a PITA to get back) and eventually the weld breaks and I have a $30 blade that's just scrap..

Any recommendations or tips on what to do to make this work better, would be greatly appreciated!

 

[mac1911]

I went through this with a larger band saw, it did not help that the bladed that came with it where all mixed in the wrong packages!
I have my dads portable band saw and the blade on it is ancient! Still cuts

 

[tq60]

Too fast
Too cheap

A blade made for metal and correct material.

Too fast and it ruins good ones.

Too much down pressure too, the saying is true, let the blade do the work.



Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[mattthemuppet2]

If it's throwing bands then either something is off in the alignment or the band tension is twisting the frame out of alignment. I'd first go through every part of the saw (bearings, guides etc) and then get to work with a large square to see what's going on.

 

[Charles scozzari]

If it's throwing bands then either something is off in the alignment or the band tension is twisting the frame out of alignment. I'd first go through every part of the saw (bearings, guides etc) and then get to work with a large square to see what's going on.

The tension of the blade may be part of the problem. It might be twisting the frame. Is the blade a little too short, are you making the blades? Are the blades wider than the guide wheels?.

 

[FOMOGO]

I have one just like that branded Baileigh, and it's my favorite saw. Have you found the speed control dial? Also found that you don't want to cut things on the thin edge, always lay the stock flat. Check that your guide bearings aren't binding. Mike

 

[Charles scozzari]

I had a problem with my Milwaukee portable throwing blades and it turned out the eccentric shaft used to tighten the blade was worn allowing the guide wheel to cock and throw the blade. After I repaired it, it's been fine.

 

[RJSakowski]

I use iMachinist brand bimetal blades purchased on Amazon. They are about half the cost of Lenox blades and seem to hold up well. Over the years, I have only had one or two blades break at the weld and those were cheap carbon steel blades from a local DIY. The most common mode of failure is loss of teeth followed by dulling the teeth due to cutting hardened steel or stainless. I increased blade life by slowing down the saw. I currently cut at 120 fpm. I also decreased the down pressure. These also made a difference in blade life.

 

[MrCrankyface]

For once checked out the manual and in the troubleshooting area they mention that any oil/gunk on the bearings/guides could cause issues.
This leads me to think this machine needs to be run dry at all times.

Also noticed that it's rated for 35 to 80 meters per minute or something like that, so I might have been running it a bit too fast for steel and intermittent cooling(not to mention contributing to the gunk issue).
I definitely run quite a bit above 120 fpm(min speed on this saw) for the typical cut I do so that's an easy fix, just need to be more patient.

I only buy quality blades which is what really stings when they break.
Gonna clean it all out properly and see if it gets out of square when tensioned and also really check out all the bearings/guides for potential binding or damage.

I should probably make some kind of constant-force-device so I can't get restless and go full 260 pound gorilla on it.

 

[Charles scozzari]

I use iMachinist brand bimetal blades purchased on Amazon. They are about half the cost of Lenox blades and seem to hold up well. Over the years, I have only had one or two blades break at the weld and those were cheap carbon steel blades from a local DIY. The most common mode of failure is loss of teeth followed by dulling the teeth due to cutting hardened steel or stainless. I increased blade life by slowing down the saw. I currently cut at 120 fpm. I also decreased the down pressure. These also made a difference in blade life.

Hi, I'm using band saw blades for my 6"/12" Famco horizontal 108" blade from "LA cutting products" and get 3 times the use over other brand I've used prior. I use there 10/14 style with very high success on everything I've used them on. I use Milwaukee brand on my portable saws.