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So, I bought a BP..

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Cadillac

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#31
With the head off I don’t know but with it on it’s not a problem. Remove gibb take screws than hold lead screw Assy to saddle out slide table whichever way you like.
Maybe do everything but the knee. You can remove gibb on knee and allow it to tilt so you can pump way oil through till clear and clean.
Luckily mine came with a bijur Oiler workin no so I just had to add.
 

Technical Ted

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#32
I picked up a 1971 2J Bridgeport a few months ago. The mill uses zerts for the ways and the previous owner used grease on it (glad he didn't use it very much!). I took the table, saddle and knee off for cleaning and I'm very glad I did. The grease did not clean out easily and I'm sure way oil would have never gotten through some of the passages. Some passages have multiple routes and the oil would have just taken the easiest route and never made it to all the ways.

I also tore the head down and went through that. There's a lot more to go wrong in a 2J than yours, but the good news for you is that you can do the job a lot quicker with a lot less work. I didn't take the spindle out (no need to since nice clean oil was coming out the bottom and everything was nice and tight/smooth), but I cleaned everything, re-packed the bull gear and pinion gear with new grease, etc.. From what I found (dirt, chips, crud, etc.) inside of mine I know I did the right thing. Now I know everything is clean and getting the proper lubrication.

Also, this is a hobby for me and I enjoy working on my new toys! :)

Ted
 

ttabbal

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#33
I took a good look at the belt housing and there is a LOT of caked on crud in there. Scrape it off with a putty knife level. So I'm going to clean at least that much out. I'm going to connect a VFD and test the motor and such to check for other issues in the head.

I think the spindle is fine, it's got a nice coating of fresh oil on it. I have an oiler, belts, and oil on the way.

The table is cleaning up nicely. I'll remove it and check out the oil passages. That will determine if the knee comes off. My luck, it will. But it is a hobby and I do enjoy working on the machine. And I'll be really upset with myself if I cut corners now and damage it due to poor lubrication. The trick is to avoid taking things apart that don't need it.
 

ttabbal

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#34
I was reading some info about rust removal on the exposed table and similar surfaces. They mentioned that it likes to flash rust when cleaned off. What are good ways to prevent that? Right now, the WD40 will help, but we all know that stuff isn't really the best option. I was thinking of a thin coat of way oil. I also saw a video where they used white lithium grease and spread it thinly.

It's not going to win any beauty contests, but I would like to keep the surfaces as rust free as possible without having to spray it down daily. :)

I think I have everything needed to do motor tests, so tonight I hope to run the main motor and the power feed motor to check for issues before I take anything else apart. Then I'll have a better idea how much work the motorized parts need.
 

Technical Ted

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#35
I wipe my machines down after each use. Typically, there is way oil, spindle oil and my general purpose oil dripping off things as I go so that is what gets used. The rag gets oil on it from the wiping, so everything I wipe gets some kind of oil on it.... The oil just gets moved around! I really don't think it matters what you use, but I don't think I would personally use grease.

I don't like WD40 for a penetrating oil but I do like it as a general cleaner. I bought a gallon can and put it into a spray bottle. The first thing I do when bringing a dirty machine/tool/accessory home to add to my collection is spray whatever I'm going to start working on with it. It loosens up the first layer of crud pretty well and will help knock off the rust and keep it from rusting worse. It also work very well in combination with ScotchBrite for polishing. A coat of WD40 would work for keeping something from flash rusting IMO.

Ted
 

bobdog

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#36
I use OILEATER best stuff I ever used to get rid of crud and wont hurt paint as all as you wipe with water after....http://oileater.com/ Not as calustic as purple power or other things.... And you dont need breathing mask to clean. Looked for and tryed alot of things before I found it....
 

ttabbal

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#37
Well, the motors are good. I fired them up with a VFD and they both run nice and quiet. The head has a slight rattle when back gear is disengaged. That seems pretty common with these. The power feed works and all the gears seem to move the table around. The highest gear stalls a bit, but cleaning and lubrication should help that.

The switch on the power feed motor is only breaking 2 of the lines. So one is always hot. I think I'm going to dedicate a small VFD to it and lose the switch. That way I can control it independently as needed.
 

ttabbal

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#39
This is what I found on my Gorton when I started pulling it apart.
Wow. That's some chips. Hopefully I'm not that full of them. So far there isn't a ton, but never know what might be hiding.
 

ttabbal

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#40
So. Much. Grease. I think I scraped a couple pounds of the stuff off with paper towels. Used pipe cleaners and brake cleaner to purge the passages. Put a solid coat of way oil on and reinstalled the knee. I think I'm going to replace the zerks rather than try to get the grease out of them. A couple were rounded off anyway and I had to use vise grips to get them off.

Used purple power and evaporust to clean up the smaller parts. They came out great. I'll get some pics. The handles and such look new.

It sounds like it might be worth the effort to split the nuts.
 

ttabbal

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#41
20180506_205749.jpg 20180506_204801.jpg 20180506_204823.jpg
 

Janderso

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#42
I think you have a fine BP. It sure is pretty compared to mine. Regarding the table removal. They are heavy!!, if you can imagine a table of the same height as the bottom of the table, you just slide it over on top of the make shift table.
I was thinking of making a frame of metal, weld it up square and rest it on a set of HB 4 wheel dolly's.
Just an idea, there will be better plans to follow.
 

Janderso

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#43
Whoa, who scraped it? Don't tell me you had grease in there with that finish!
 

Cadillac

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#44
A easy way to remove and carry table is a tool cart that can handle the weight. Put cart next to table area. Use knee height adjust to get the table just high of cart. Slide table on cart and roll away. No need for lifting.
 

ttabbal

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#45
Whoa, who scraped it? Don't tell me you had grease in there with that finish!
The guy I bought it from said it had been worked on. And yes, so much grease. I think he learned in the 40s and that's what they did then. So when he got it, he filled it with grease. And then it sat for 10+ years. I honestly think he didn't use it much after the work was done on it, so the grease didn't cause problems. I'm still working on it, got the knee lift parts installed, and the saddle with the new wipers all soaked with way oil. I'm going to pick up new zerks and some copper tube to make a oil fitting for the feed nuts. The rebuilding book mentions it and it seems much easier to get oil where it needs to be than to try to line up the table with the vise in the way to drip oil through the table. The passage that feeds the lower nut was also packed with grease... No idea how it got in there. Perhaps greasing the feed screw pushed it in there? Need to get those cleaned and oiled as well.

I used the engine hoist to remove the table with bolts in the T-slots. Thinking about it, perhaps not the best plan. I still need to clean it though. I think I'll make a wood box, line it with plastic and soak it like I did the other parts. That worked well and the custom box should keep the amount of solution reasonable.
 

ttabbal

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#46
A couple progress pics... Vise cleaned, oiled, and assembled.

20180514_235812.jpg

Turned a fitting for the feed nuts to make oiling easier once I add some copper tube etc.. It will be press fit once I solder the copper tube on, then I will probably need to grind it down a bit for clearance with the table.

20180514_235931.jpg

Close to getting the bottom end back together. Also split the nuts and faced them on the lathe. The table is soaking but starting to look like a mill table.
 

ttabbal

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#47
Ok... Table cleaned up better than I have any right to ask for...

20180516_235757.jpg

Backlash is about 0.007" on X and Y. Everything moves smooth and tight. I think I might tighten the Y gib a little, but I am going to wait and see how it feels with the vise on the table.

Now to clean up the power feed and get it back on there.
 

Janderso

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#48
Very nice, I’m jealous
 

ttabbal

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#49
Bottom end is back together and working great. Adjusted the gibs and such to get nice smooth travel over the whole range. The power feed is reinstalled and working well.

Cleaned up the belt housing, what a mess. About 1/8" of mixed crud in there. Scraped it off, then scrubbed with wire brushes, steel wool, and scotchbrites to clean it out. It felt like a mix of grease, oil, random garage dirt, and some material from the brake. The parts are silver again!

I did run into a set screw with a stripped socket head. It's #10 "1254 - Socket Set Screw" on this diagram.

http://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/store/1478157/page/552090

I would order it from them, but the shipping would kill it and I don't really need anything else at the moment. It also didn't seem to "set" anything really as removing the screw it was holding wasn't any harder than removing the one I was able to remove the set screw for. I can likely remove it and replace it. But is it worth the bother? They are used to hold the "Cam Ring Pin" in place, or are supposed to anyway. If you happen to know the thread spec, that would be helpful info as well. My guess is it's a #2, but I neglected to mic it.
 

Technical Ted

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#50
I don't know for sure, but it might very well be a standard size you can get at your local hardware store. Mike up the OD and either use a thread pitch gauge or count the threads per inch on a scale. That's what I would do anyways...

Good luck,
Ted
 

ttabbal

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#51
Thanks. Just in case someone else ends up looking for them, they are 6-32 1/4" long. I need to not guess thread sizes, I always pick low. :)
 

ttabbal

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#52
Well, it's back together. I spent some time tramming it up and installed and indicated the vise. Everything is +/-0.0002. Drove myself a little nuts with the tenths indicator. Probably not needed, but it was partly practice.

20180526_175140.jpg

And, of course I had to make first chips. Just a simple squaring cut with a 3/4 roughing and a 3/4 4 flute. I discovered that I lack a collet that can hold a 3/8 shank, so I can't use my smaller end mills. Even at 40 thou DOC the rougher barely made any noise.


20180526_180012.jpg


20180526_180549.jpg
 

Z2V

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#53
Looks good. So, what’s next, VFD or DRO?
 

ttabbal

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#54
I have a pair of VFDs, the power feed is the old style with a 3 phase motor and a gearbox. I figure if I have to reverse the spindle using the back gear, I don't want to reverse the power feed.

I haven't decided on mounting them. I am leaning towards removing the fuse box on the back of the column and mounting them back there on a plate. Then using remote mounted controls where the drum switch used to live.

DRO is definitely at the top of the list.
 

Z2V

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#55
My mill already had the DRO when I bought it. I wouldn’t know how to act without it.
 

ttabbal

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#56
I decided to take apart the auto quill feed bits to soak in evaporust and fix whatever is wrong with it. Getting the reverse trip ball lever out is a pain. I made a 5-40 screw out of 12L14 and it threads but that doesn't want to come out. Any ideas for removing it? I was pulling hard enough that I was concerned about breaking the homemade screw.

5-40 sucks to thread...
 

Technical Ted

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#57
My suggestion would be to wiggle the feed reverse trip plunger and/or the quill stop screw up and down while pulling on it and see if that helps. I would also spray in some good penetrating oil and let that work on any crud that might be in there. It should come out as long as the trip plunger isn't hanging it up...

Good luck,
Ted
 

ttabbal

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#58
And the power quill feed parts cleaned up, lubricated and reassembled. Mostly. My machine is missing the parts inside the fine feed. The spring, ball, and a key I'm trying to identify. And the direction selector, but I did get the broken off screw out.

The mechanism works locks in and trips when pushing the screw down. So I think if I get those missing parts I should be good to go.

20180528_165958.jpg
 

ttabbal

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#59
Got the parts in (they spent some time in Arizona for some reason) and the quill feed works great! I also got one of those clamp-on stops so I don't have to spin that micrometer nut as much for times I don't mind a loss in precision. I tested both up and down, the stop system trips easily. I'm quite surprised how nice the old parts look after a soak in purple power then evaporust.

The lower hole for the scale is stripped out (boooo!!!), but I sprung for a new scale which looks nice on there. I might tap it and use a larger screw, haven't decided yet. I'm also considering using one of the little quill DROs. It should go nice with the 3 axis I just ordered using the ebay 20% off coupon. :D

I really need to get the conduit run so I can get the electrical in the garage fixed up and move things to where they need to be.
 

ttabbal

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#60
After much swearing and a project installing new circuits in conduit, and moving the mill to its new spot...

20180622_173051.jpg

Got the controls put together, wired and configured on the VFDs. Direction and speed control for the spindle, just on off for the power feed. The emergency stop stops both VFDs. The spindle start/stop works just under 2 seconds, so power tapping might be possible.

And the tormach ring light fits nicely.

Just need to adjust the leveling feet.
 
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