Solder seal wire connectors

[alloy]

I see ads all over for these. Never used them before. Seems like a pretty good idea to me.

Pro's and cons on them? Anyone used them in an engine compartment?

Says minimum temp to melt solder 231F. Seems pretty close to normal engine temp.

 

[markba633csi]

I don't know if I'd trust them in a hot engine bay, but I've never used them
-M

 

[KevinM]

Some areas of an engine bay get well over 231F. Exhaust manifolds get quite hot.

 

[38super]

Used a coaxial version on Phantoms, need a good heat gun. Never had a failure, jets get pretty warm.

 

[alloy]

I think im going to order some. I've got some connections to the ecm that they recommend they be soldered. There are a couple of the connections in the engine bay but they are up around the intake so hopefully not too hot there for them.

 

[38super]

That blue ring melts and seals the wiring. We had probs with moisture corrosion (read that as ****head maintenance), these splices fit the bill.

 

[Jackle1312]

Solder sleeves work great if you use a heat gun with a reflector to flow the heat around. The Mil-spec ones take a higher temp to melt compared to commercial ones. If I remember they require 700 deg or higher to melt and are rated around 200-400 deg max service temp. The ones you are looking at are low temp so the service temp is lower.
One thing to watch out for is burning the wire insulation if you have to heat it higher then it can handle

 

[rwm]

I have tried these. I watched the solder melt and flow. Seemed like a good connection. Upon destruction testing I found that a lot of these had not wetted the copper and the wires were only physically held together by the plastic. Before you spend the time on your project I highly recommend you test some of these (including pulling them apart) and make sure you are happy with the connection. Please report back.
Robert

 

[markba633csi]

I suspected that they might not work too well on old wires that have a thin film of corrosion
Sometimes you can have wires that look like shiny copper but actually have a nearly invisible film- very hard to solder even with old reliable Kester 44
That happened to me in first grade, trying to demonstrate soldering to the class- very embarassing
-M

 

[pdentrem]

Over 20 years old the sales guy for The Fastener Center was flogging these. Worked fairly well, the techs (mechanics) found that a times like mentioned, not enough solder to completely fuse the joint. I tried a different companies terminal version recently, fail. No where near enough solder, and the metal rings, etc are so soft that you can almost tear them off with your teeth. I have reverted back to slipping on a shrink tube, solder the joint and then slide the tube over and heat it.
Pierre