South Bend 9A restoration happening w/pics!!

You can only "true" the jaws for one diameter. all other will still be off by a diff amount. Chuck runout does not affect "cutting accuracy", it only means you cannot re-chuck the work with near zero runout. The spindle runout and bearing clearance will determine final runout of the work.

Check and adjust here:
 
martik777 said:
You can only "true" the jaws for one diameter. all other will still be off by a diff amount. Chuck runout does not affect "cutting accuracy", it only means you cannot re-chuck the work with near zero runout. The spindle runout and bearing clearance will determine final runout of the work.

Check and adjust here:
Click to expand...

That is a very good video! Thank you so much for sharing that with me. "Looks like I have to to start all over again." I was wondering why I was leaking oil from the both bearings before I put in an additional shims. No I know and I was using a 4' long pipe to do the lifting of the spindle and I guess that was a little excessive. "LEARNING SOMETHING NEW EVERYDAY!" (No matter how much pain and agony or money it might cost me!) LoL
 
Last edited:
My brother used to describe his foibles as "Gullible's Travels". :)
Where to draw the line on the price on an education?
 
Choiliefan said:
My brother used to describe his foibles as "Gullible's Travels". :)
Where to draw the line on the price on an education?
Click to expand...

Yes your correct but I feel I'm sooooo close to having a good machine for my little "do nothing" hobby needs and I'm way over the line on the investment end of it. I couldn't bring myself to try and dump it on someone like it was dumped on me. I'll just keep plugging away at it until I find it to be a good restored machine. I had a Grizzly 3-In-one 31" machine that was way too large for my shop and wanted something that didn't need change gears. The upper mill/drill portion took up way too much room and I never used used it because I have a 1hp Grizzly mill. The SB 9A is the perfect size, has no change gears necessary and have a nice taper assembly. So even though I've good too much money in it I think it will be a nice upgrade for me. Here's a pic of the Grizzly and you can see how much room it required. I sold it about the same time that I bought the SB 9A.
 

Attachments

  • 20200131_123340.jpg
    20200131_123340.jpg
    2.8 MB · Views: 17
  • 20191019_170416 (1).jpg
    20191019_170416 (1).jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 19
Last edited:
Ok. I rechecked, after removing chuck, put in neutral and relieved belt tension, and reads .0025" on nose and .002" at rear of spindle. Is that acceptable?

I also noticed I'm not leaking oil past the bearings, which was noticed earlier, as far as I can tell at this time.
 
Last edited:
These are from Steve Wells guide to rebuilding a 9A
9ea2e2166bea6114fd645c7e8fa8720c.jpg


094a5851f3195225838bcbbf5d444c29.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yeah, I would try to hit 0.001" to 0.0015" on both ends. Too much more and the oil film that the spindle rides on can't properly form. All you need to do is remove some of the shims.
 
If you don't have the shims to remove, let me spend some more of your money and send you here to get the proper laminated shims. Or, you could just buy some brass shim stock and cut your own.
 
SLK001 said:
Yeah, I would try to hit 0.001" to 0.0015" on both ends. Too much more and the oil film that the spindle rides on can't properly form. All you need to do is remove some of the shims.
Click to expand...

Even though I'm going to call this good enough for my lathe. There are only two shims in each end. One being the original, which might be a peelable type, and the other I cut out is .017". If I take out the .017" I don't have any shim stock close to .016" thickness. I had to pry open the headstock in order to remove and insert the shims back in. Wasn't an easy task at all. Maybe I can say it's "Just the newness wearing off." I'm more concerned with the chuck and it's concentricity at this time. I'm thinking maybe a new chuck would be in order. Import with back plate is around $100.
 
SLK001 said:
If you don't have the shims to remove, let me spend some more of your money and send you here to get the proper laminated shims. Or, you could just buy some brass shim stock and cut your own.
Click to expand...
Where do you buy those laminated shims at??
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top