Stand For My Carbide Grinder

Bob, can I restart your grinder stand thread?

I recently took my baldor buffer/grinder off my home made stand because it was poorly designed and starting to loosen up and lean. I used a 4x4 post and 2x4 scraps for legs.

So, who has a picture of their bench grinder on a stand of any sort? I was thinking about trying to develop my welding skills a bit by making a stand from steel, but I also like the idea of a cabinet with storage. I'm just looking for more ideas before I commit.

Thanks, Jim.
 
I recently made a stand for my buffer that addresses some of your needs. I made a mobile stand with shelves underneath. When I designed my stand I wanted something that was mobile so I could move it out by the garage door or outside to get the dust away from my machine tools. I also wanted some place to store extra wheels and buffing rouge. I ended up with a dolly style arrangement. It is made from heavy 3/16" tubing and angle iron and is very heavy. Because of this weight, it is very stable. I put galvanized sheet metal sides on it to keep I most of the buffing debris out. I also used expanded metal on the back so that I can give it a quick blow out with compressed air when finished. The only thing I would do different in hindsight would be to make the handle 6" taller to increase leverage when tilting and rolling. The shelves have been very handy and I keep the extra wheels wrapped in plastic grocery bags to reduce contamination. They also provide a place to put a rake and rouge. I have limited space so I like to maximize utilization of space and tried to capture as much storage as possible within the machines footprint.
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Don't know if my builds count , but a few years ago I was given a large quantity of very heavy well made metal shelves 12x36 and 24x36 . Well I built five sets of shelving for my storage container. But I took one shelf cut it down to 24" and welded some brackets to mount it to the back of a rolling table . I mounted my carbide grinder to the shelf with a full sized rubber spacer. No vibration or noise at all. The rolling table has room for at least two SANDERS or other grinder which will make it a full station. Plus I built a full width drawer 20" x 28" aluminum diamond plate sides and doors.
 
Bob, are you still using the HF grinder for grinding carbide tooling?

Iam interested in what horsepower, speeds and wheels you use.

Thanks,

Glenn
 
Hi Glenn,
My carbide grinder is a Harbor Freight brand (p/n 46727, now discontinued, 1/2 hp, 3400 rpm) bought from my brother and missing a few parts. I added a 120 grit, 100% concentration diamond wheel from Shars
http://www.shars.com/6x3-4-d6a2c-diamond-plain-cup-wheel-5
to one side of it. The diamond wheel works nicely, but the bolt circle diameter was slightly off size and I had to essentially dial it in with the flat head mounting screws that it needs for mounting to make it run pretty close to true. The wheel really needs to have an additional new bolt pattern machined into it, and I will do that if I ever take it off again. I also made the missing parts, three of the four tommy bolt handles for adjusting the table, the mounting pins for the coolant cup, and the miter/protractor gauge.

I use it for regrinding brazed carbide tool bits, for roughing in scraper cutting edges, and for dressing slightly worn carbide inserts to a sharper edge and the points to a larger nose radius if that is what I am looking for at the moment. Really, anything carbide is a candidate. The tables are difficult to adjust until the trunnions are aligned properly with the mounting hardware. That also requires a bit of deburring, etc., and is fussy and frustrating until an understanding is reached. The tables are very nice to use, however, once you get them working correctly. The miter gauge along with the tilting tables allows accurate compound grind angles and nicely controlled grinds.

The grinder runs quite smoothly and without runout other than the Shars wheel (see above). The Harbor Freight wheels that are painted green are not very good even after you dress the paint off, but I have not replaced the one wheel I am still using.

It is not a Baldor by any means, but not the Baldor price, either. I find it totally usable in my home shop and recommend it for that use. Grizzly and others still offer these grinders new with a different badge and paint color at affordable prices. Some of them will have more issues than mine did with out of balance wheels, spindle runout, etc. -- the usual import tool issues. I was lucky with this one, paid $70 for it in unused condition, no stand and the missing parts. After addressing the above I now have one well worth keeping.
 
O.K. It seems that some of us fortunates possess the luxury of owning Tool Grinders. Let's take a small step further and ask what we use in our coolant cups. I am running a Norton Diamond wheel on the right, and a National Diamond Labs CBN on the left.
I myself use Kerosene. Of course it doesn't flood just a mere drip to float away the buildup in the wheel and cool the carbide/HHS. It also keeps the table from rusting as well. Who uses what, and what do you think the benefits are?
toolroom
 
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BSS1, is that fat wheel for deburring? if so how do you like it and where did you find it?

Here's my latest grinder stand, fabricated steel that is modeled after the factory cast versions.
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Dan

The fat gray wheel is for deburring. I think I got it from Enco before the switch. If I remember correctly it is a Scotchbrite wheel. It works well for light deburring and brushed finishes. However, it seems somewhat delicate and wears quickly. I don't use it much for that reason as it was fairly expensive.

Your stand looks great. I bet it was not easy to make that rounded edge base.
 
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sanddan said:
Here's my latest grinder stand, fabricated steel that is modeled after the factory cast versions.
View attachment 226826
Click to expand...

Dan,
How did you manufacture the curved edge of your stand base? I'm trying to think of ideas of how you did it. Maybe split sections of pipe and welded it on? It looks great.
Jack
 
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