Striatech DVR motor for PM's 2-3 HP lathes 1236,1236T,1340GT.. etc

Ischgl99 said:
I use a standard oil can I got from Tractor Supply for the ball oilers. I think it cost $5. For your oils, see if you have a local Napa Auto store, my local store has a good supply of oils and I believe they can also get way oil. I got mine from McMaster-Carr before I knew to look at Napa, but then you have to pay shipping.
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Good to know... I was going to buy an oiler from McMaster-Car... then I read they have "specs" for the oils (likely just viscosity) they are rated for... my head is going to explode with all these specifics :). I'm going to take a moment to understand all the oil stuff with some googling for sure. I found an old thread from @mksj with some good oil info... I thought the ISO 68 referred to the viscosity, but them PM has gearbox and way oil, both ISO68... and their viscosity rating is 95 and 102 respectively. At least it's just 2 oils, gear box and way oil for ways and norton drip gear box. I'll run with what it comes with, but will likely change soon after, if nothing more than to feel good about it and get comfortable with good maintenance.

Sorry for all the thread's off topic musings.
 
You should only need two oils for the 1236T. Way oil ISO68, the ISO is the viscosity index but can vary based on the oil application (operating temperature) and additive packages. Way oil has tackifiers which help the oi stick to the metal and not flow away (i.e. film strength). This oil should be used for all the oilers and also the Norton (open) gearbox and can be used in the carriage. Any ISO68 "Way Oil" is fine. Headstock oil is typically a gear or hydraulic oil for machine NOT motors/transmissions/differentials, etc. Any tractor oil of the proper viscosity is fine, these are often listed as hydraulic oils, but often shared with manual gearbox. The ISO rating recommended for the headstock varies so I would refer to the owners manual. Typically in a headstock I have used ISO32, but PM/QMT seems to use ISO68 for both headstock and enclosed gearboxes, which simplifies oil requirements. If you have enclosed gears I tend to use a straight ISO oil as opposed to a way oil, but like my lathe carriage has a pump to the ways, so I use a way oil in it. Either oil will work fine. Open gearboxes I prefer way oil because it sticks to the gears.

There is no special magic of one brand of oil vs. another, they all lubricate. You do not want any oils that contain extreme pressure additives, you want to change any enclose oil reservoir at least annually due to moisture build up, not because it wears out. People spend way too much time on this topic, the application in a gear head lathe is very basic and doesn't demand much of the oil. Since it is a splash lubrication, the oil needs to splash up into the headstock, coat the gears and get to the bearings, too high a viscosity will add drag and not flow to the bearings well in particular if you are using the machine in colder climates.

Way Oil, #2 (ISO 68) Quart – Precision Matthews Machinery Co.

www.precisionmatthews.com www.precisionmatthews.com
 
It’s your thread, so you can go off topic all you want! But, sometimes its better to start a new thread so that more people will see the different topic and comment.

ISO 68 refers to the viscosity, but there is a range, so it won’t necessarily be exactly that. ISO 68 Way oil is just an ISO 68 oil with tacifiers that make it more sticky than regular oil. Some people use regular oil and add a tacifier to make way oil, that way you only have one jug of oil on hand.

You will get some metal particles from the gears when you are breaking it in, and even could get some after that. You should change the oil at about 10 hours of use and remove the cover to clean all the metal particles from the sump as well as the gutter in the top that directs oil to the bearings. There will be a significant amount of metal particles in there you want to get out so they don’t make their way into the bearings. I changed my oil again about 20 hours later and found more metal that needed to be removed, so it could take a while for it to really break in. It would be a good idea to install a magnet in the bottom of the sump to attract the metal so that it is not getting flung around during use.

For oil, I just used the oil Tractor Supply carries. Mobil oil is good, but I don’t think there is anything special about it that justifies the higher price for a simple application like this. If this was an expensive machine running 24/7, then the cost of the oil is insignificant, but for a hobby lathe, I don’t think you will see any difference between the different brands.
 
mksj said:
You should only need two oils for the 1236T. Way oil ISO68, the ISO is the viscosity index but can vary based on the oil application (operating temperature) and additive packages. Way oil has tackifiers which help the oi stick to the metal and not flow away (i.e. film strength). This oil should be used for all the oilers and also the Norton (open) gearbox and can be used in the carriage. Any ISO68 "Way Oil" is fine. Headstock oil is typically a gear or hydraulic oil for machine NOT motors/transmissions/differentials, etc. Any tractor oil of the proper viscosity is fine, these are often listed as hydraulic oils, but often shared with manual gearbox. The ISO rating recommended for the headstock varies so I would refer to the owners manual. Typically in a headstock I have used ISO32, but PM/QMT seems to use ISO68 for both headstock and enclosed gearboxes, which simplifies oil requirements. If you have enclosed gears I tend to use a straight ISO oil as opposed to a way oil, but like my lathe carriage has a pump to the ways, so I use a way oil in it. Either oil will work fine. Open gearboxes I prefer way oil because it sticks to the gears.

There is no special magic of one brand of oil vs. another, they all lubricate. You do not want any oils that contain extreme pressure additives, you want to change any enclose oil reservoir at least annually due to moisture build up, not because it wears out. People spend way too much time on this topic, the application in a gear head lathe is very basic and doesn't demand much of the oil. Since it is a splash lubrication, the oil needs to splash up into the headstock, coat the gears and get to the bearings, too high a viscosity will add drag and not flow to the bearings well in particular if you are using the machine in colder climates.

Way Oil, #2 (ISO 68) Quart – Precision Matthews Machinery Co.

www.precisionmatthews.com www.precisionmatthews.com
Click to expand...
Yep, Just two oils listed in manual. Sounds like for the carriage feed gear box, you can use way oil or the Vacuoline 1409 I've seen referenced, a little more tacky, but since it also needs to drip down, maybe the circulating oil will drip better. That drip system and how much you fill it with seems like there's not much needed, the drop mat/pan just needs to be soaked well.

Sounds like 4-5 quarts of PM's IS068 circulating oil and 1 quart of way oil, I should be good for a long time.... I just find it very interesting to understand all this... in the future, I'd rather just run to my local store to get it.

1659367312251.png
 
mksj said:
If you have enclosed gears I tend to use a straight ISO oil as opposed to a way oil, but like my lathe carriage has a pump to the ways, so I use a way oil in it. Either oil will work fine. Open gearboxes I prefer way oil because it sticks to the gears.
Click to expand...
That's pretty slick, didn't realize the carriage/apron gear box would automatically oil your ways (for lathes that have that)..., not a feature on the 1236T. I just assume I should drip some way oil on the ways every so often or when it looks dry.
 
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