Surface Grinder for a hobbyist

[Bob Korves]

If you are talking about a Boyar Shultz, then yes, it lifts straight up. May have a bit of suction holding it, so slide to one end of travel and lift that side up first.

No reason to take a table off to move the grinder UNLESS the machine has rollers or balls under the table. With a normal BS lock the table down in center of stroke, crank table towards rear, place a 2x4 under the spindle, then lower the spindle onto the 2x4 so it can't bounce. All the BS that I ever saw were bolted to the base cabinet, so no danger of it coming off the base

A table that is sitting on a surface grinder and held down by gravity only (many or most surface grinders) can lose that table in transport if it is not removed or secured down. If the grinder has ball or roller bearing ways, the table and base can easily be ruined by the table bouncing up and down, creating divots in the ways. The table can also bounce right off the machine and be lost and/or damaged beyond repair. Take the table off of any machine where it is held on by gravity or has ball or roller ways before transporting it.

 

[Driveslayer45]

To remove the traverse handle take out the set screws like you have. Then take the gear off the one end. I believe it’s a tapered pin holding the gear. Once the screws are out you want to tap the shaft towards the handle. It’s a slide fit in the apron. If I remember correctly the set screw will hold the shaft like a lock so the table locks in place. I had ordered a new rack and gear from McMaster which was Almost a direct replacement except that I had to drill holes in the rack for mounting.
You can get most of the parts from McMaster which are near oem replacements just might take some slight modifications. I wouldn’t worry about the apron screw unless your grinding up to a edge which it will still be accurate just a pain with the backlash.

So when I try to pull that shaft back towards the handle it is spring loaded. Maybe the spring might just be stuck in place and once I tap it she'll come on out?

 

[Cadillac]

The spring on that shaft is for the operator to index the traverse handwheel for comfort. You would pull the handwheel back and index the handle to where you want and the spring puts the rack gear back in line with the rack.
Yes it will come out as a assembly. I replaced the bearings on that shaft so they were new figured they get the most workout traversing the table back and fourth.

 

[Driveslayer45]

great, ty. i will work that tonight

 

[MontanaLon]

So this showed up at a local used machine dealer.

The price is reasonable but higher than what I see on larger grinders. This one I could actually get into the basement though so it has that advantage. But I wonder what the capabilities are for my purposes.

 

[Driveslayer45]

So after a few serious "taps" I was able to get the shaft out, discovered the slop was due to a worn shaft, about .020", caused by a plugged oil path.

After some consideration I decided to cut down the shaft, bore out the brass bushing, then cut a bronze slug to drill and bore so it fits the shaft well and press Fitbit into the original bushing. Then cut a new bronze bushing to fit the cut down, and trued shaft to replace the steel output bushing.. only thing left is to cut a steel bushing to remount the gear And drill the oil port back into the bushing ... Busy night..

 

[682bear]

A couple of years ago I found an old Taft-Peirce grinder for cheap... the table ways were worn, but the spindle was good.

I had the table v-ways reground at work and replaced the ball bearings that the table moves on... and had to machine a new y axis lead screw for it. It operates very smoothly now.

It is a fully manual grinder, though, and is my least favorite machine to operate... I built a steel platform to raise it 6 inches, and it is still low enough to wear my back out when running it.

It does get the job done, though...

-Bear

 

[Bob Korves]

So this showed up at a local used machine dealer.

The price is reasonable but higher than what I see on larger grinders. This one I could actually get into the basement though so it has that advantage. But I wonder what the capabilities are for my purposes.

Search for reviews of the Delta Toolmaster grinder before purchasing one. It is not a precision surface grinder, IMO. What do you plan to use it for?

 

[projectnut]

I think unless you spend quite a bit of money on a grinder, your going to get a project to work on. Remember this is a hobby forum. If you want to hold tenths or sub tenths you better get out the check book.
Joe

If you're patient and persevere you might get lucky and find a good machine for a reasonable price. I looked for over 2 years before coming across a Sanford MG grinder that was in excellent condition and not too pricey. I did have to travel about 100 miles to pick it up, but it was a nice ride on a perfect day.

In my case the owner was attempting to retire, but one of the companies he contracted to kept sending him business. He finally decided to sell off most of the machines so he could legitimately tell the company he could no longer provide the service.

Here's the grinder. This is the way it looked when I picked it up. I've had it going on 10 years.

 

[JohnG]

I bought a Reid Bros grinder like liljoebrshooter's at a school auction. Best $200 tool I have. It was impossibly grubby except for the spindle bearings. Behind their labyrinth seal and wood oil wick, they were immaculate. The cross feed screw was badly worn, and I had to turn a new one and also replace the nut. I threaded a pair of bronze acme nuts back to back onto the steel mount. One is screwed tight, and the other has a lock nut to adjust them for a tension fit on the screw. There's a series of tubes and channels that ends up dripping oil onto the screw in the middle of the nut. I sharpen a lot of wood working cutters--hss, stellite, and carbide--with this grinder.