Tepramental and Idiosyncratic Chain saw @GRRRRR.com

I have 3 of those older Stihl machines, they range from about 30 to 45 years old. Each one has over the years given me problems, but they have rarely been ignition, almost always fuel, like pinhole in fuel pump diaphram, hard dry cracked fuel line, dirt in carby etc, but rarely ignition.
 
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I have acres of trees that fall over every time a coon or squirrel breaks wind, and the weather here is hot and humid. Lots of chainsaw problems. I have learned two important things.

1. Never pay to have a carb fixed. Buy a new one on Ebay. If you have a relatively new chainsaw, the carb was probably made in a Chinese factory, and you can probably buy an identical carb for about $13, or roughly 25% of what the manufacturer will charge you for the same product. The new carb will probably come with other parts, such as a spark plug and maybe fuel lines and a fuel filter. It will be just as good as your original Chinese carb, and you will avoid paying someone $100 to keep your saw for 6 weeks and unblock your old carb. When you buy a new saw, you might as well buy a spare Chinese carb to go with it. Otherwise, you may be stuck without a saw while you wait for your new carb to show up.

2. Buy a big sonic cleaner. When you take your old carb off your saw and put a new one in, you will want to fix your old carb so you'll be ready when the new one clogs up. Open the carb up, put it in a sealed jar of gasoline, and put the jar in your sonic cleaner. It will knock the ethanol crud loose. By using a jar instead of filling your cleaner with solvent, you avoid burning your house down, you save money, and you don't make a mess. Just set the gas-filled jar down in the hot water.

Other good tips: don't use Sta-Bil. It doesn't work. I've been using a product called Biobor EB, and it's somewhat better. Use ethanol-free gas only. When you're done cutting for the day, empty your tank, run your saw dry, put a tiny amount of premixed fuel in it (the $20/gallon stuff), and run it dry again. This way you get the benefit of the high-end gas with very little of the financial pain. If that's too much work, never let a small engine sit more than a couple of weeks with fuel in it. Also, if you have one of those idiotic greenie gas cans that spill gas everywhere, go to Ebay and buy an old-fashioned spout for it. Better than pouring gas all over your saw and your yard or floor every time you fill it. You can also buy a vent which makes gas flow correctly. Buy spare diaphragms for your carbs, because most diaphragms are garbage.

It's amazing that the American public tolerates the destructive ethanol farce.
 
Another cause of poor performance on two cycle engines is a weak or broken reed valve.
 
in the gas or in the operator??

Usually both . :big grin: All my saws run perfectly up in NY in the Adirondacks because I can buy un-ethanoled gas . I now run up to Pa. and fill up with the same . I've had no issues this year with things being messed up but my larger Stihls and Huskies have not been addressed as yet .
 
check the ribbed fuel line in the tank,, mine had "softened" from age and fuel.. it would idle and run , but would "bog-out" under load as the fuel line collapsed on itself.. the muffler can also get clogged and is cleanable..
 
It's not just the ethanol.
I've got (5 or 6) 2-cycles sitting in the tractor shed that need attention so I figured I'd spend an evening watching videos on the matter.
2-cycles have never liked me to begin with.
I always see the 'premium' fuel at the estates sales, guess what I'm going to start grabbing when I can?

This was rather informative:
 
guess what I'm going to start grabbing when I can?

More motors ? ;) I have a garage full of things to get running again . 3 Honda 400 ex's , 3 expensive chainsaws , a couple of Echo straight shaft trimmers etc . I find I just buy new ones and these sit until I can get a round tuit . ( I think they sell them on the bay ) :big grin:

 
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