The PM-1236T vs PM-1340GT dilemma

If you are doing barrel work on 24" barrels. you will appreciate the '40. If that and other large projects are not in your (estimated) future, then save the grand and use it for tooling later. MY 12X37 has nearly 2K in tooling (I do a wide range of work).

I upgraded from the 12" because of the screw on chuck and the belt drive. the 1236 doesn't have these limitations.
 
Dabbler said:
If you are doing barrel work on 24" barrels. you will appreciate the '40. If that and other large projects are not in your (estimated) future, then save the grand and use it for tooling later. MY 12X37 has nearly 2K in tooling (I do a wide range of work).

I upgraded from the 12" because of the screw on chuck and the belt drive. the 1236 doesn't have these limitations.
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I do all my chambering through the headstock, so the best limitation really won’t impact me unless I’m doing a barrel over 1.5” in diameter.
 
Here's the deal, Matt has machines inbound and I want to get one ordered and setup asap. I want a DRO for sure and I don't want to install it because I hate dealing with them...VFD, sure...DRO, no thanks. He doesn't have any glass scale DROs for the 1340 in stock but has mag scale DRO's for it. The mag scale DRO is $200 bucks more than the glass. He does have glass scales in stock for the 1236t though. I've heard that the mag scales can be laggy in reading. I definitely don't want to deal with lag.

Matt continues to tell me the two machines run identically. He said he's run them both a lot and can't tell a difference between the two. He recommends saving the money and getting the 1236T.
 
I started a thread earlier this week basically wanting to know the exact same thing. Matt told me the same thing he told you. The 1236t is a 4” shorter 1340gt. Motors perform the same. I just mailed a check for a loaded up 1236T. Why not get a 1340, it’s just $1500 more, or a 1440 Chinese for roughly the same price, or just jump up to the 1440gt. Or maybe go even bigger...... where does it end. For me I looked at MY needs and then I chose the best made PM lathe that fit my needs as advised by Matt and a couple of other very knowledgeable posters. I know I’ll be happy with a great machine. My point is you can get a little more machine, and a little more than that one, it never ends
 
Magnetic scales are not buggy, they are less prone to issues than glass scales although they both work well. If you plan to use any coolant go with magnetic scales, you want a 1 micron on the cross slide. The DRO is the same as that sold by DRO Pros, they are very reliable. I use 4 axis magnetic scales on my mill and a combination of glass and magnetic on the lathe. The magnetic scales are an easier install and more forgiving, but to each their own. The lathes are the same between the two (same manufacturer), the headstock would be different. If you plan to go with a VFD I would opt for the 2 Hp 3 phase motor, you get Hp loss below the motor base speed. I have had a few cases where I was swinging a part in a 4J chuck and it was nice to have the extra swing on the 1340GT, but never needed the length.
 
mksj said:
Magnetic scales are not buggy, they are less prone to issues than glass scales although they both work well. If you plan to use any coolant go with magnetic scales, you want a 1 micron on the cross slide. The DRO is the same as that sold by DRO Pros, they are very reliable. I use 4 axis magnetic scales on my mill and a combination of glass and magnetic on the lathe. The magnetic scales are an easier install and more forgiving, but to each their own. The lathes are the same between the two (same manufacturer), the headstock would be different. If you plan to go with a VFD I would opt for the 2 Hp 3 phase motor, you get Hp loss below the motor base speed. I have had a few cases where I was swinging a part in a 4J chuck and it was nice to have the extra swing on the 1340GT, but never needed the length.
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According to Matt, they both come with the same 2hp motor in 3 phase.
 
@daveog I don't want to mess you up, but putting a VFD on a lathe is far more work and trouble than installing a DRO. All the controls have to be rewired, and that is no mean feat. I have a 15 X 60 3PH lathe, and I dread putting a VFD on it, even though I will have to some day. (reasons).

A DRO can be installed easily in a day or 2. Putting a VFD on a lathe takes a full-time week. VFD on a mill: 2 hours. life isn't fair!
 
Dabbler said:
@daveog I don't want to mess you up, but putting a VFD on a lathe is far more work and trouble than installing a DRO. All the controls have to be rewired, and that is no mean feat. I have a 15 X 60 3PH lathe, and I dread putting a VFD on it, even though I will have to some day. (reasons).

A DRO can be installed easily in a day or 2. Putting a VFD on a lathe takes a full-time week. VFD on a mill: 2 hours. life isn't fair!
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I’ve done both. Just prefer doing the vfd.
 
Oh yeah: get the mag DRO if you can - both my DROs are mag, and they are 30 and 40 years old, and they work as accurately as the day they were bought. Glass are suseptable to coolant and oil encursion troubles - yes they can be fixed, but it is a hassle. Mag scales will work regardless.
 
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