To Seize Or Not To Seize

I have had good luck with the copper based stuff from Permatex.

A mechanic mentor from back in the day, told me " you can paint an elephant with a teaspoon of anti-seize ". Ha,always thought that was hilarious, but I think close to true, no way to keep from getting it all over yourself .
 
copper is good to 1800*F
the silver is good to 1400*F

I was going to say that I know the copper slip is good for tempratures as it's always recomended on brake parts (just not the pads ;)

Its ages since I've used it but i seem to remember an anti sieze for titanium on titanium that might have been wight, humm bad memory.

Stuart
 
I use so little of it that a jar of anti-seize will dry up before it gets used up. So I now buy the highest temp stuff (nickel) and use it for all anti-seize jobs that come along.
 
When would you choose the silver rather than the copper? (or the nickel)

[Edit] Found this: http://www.henkelna.com/us/content_data/333994_LT6734.pdf


i use the copper antiseize on engine exhaust hardware, Heat tunnel fasteners, brake components, and higher temp stuff.
i use the aluminum based for general use on stuff that doesn't see a lot of heat or if the machine works in a cold enviornment.
I have not used the nickle antisieze
 
Please be aware that titanium is has special characteristics so do your research before using just any kind of anti-seize on it. I learned the hard way.
 
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A £5 plastic can of copper anti-seize paste ( readily available in UK motor stores) will last a lifetime. I use it on spark plugs, Wheel bolts threads , exhausts, rear of alloy wheel mounting faces, brake pad metal surfaces etc. Used with discretion it can save a lot of dismantling time and preserve fasteners from rust. I reduce wheel lug torque by 10% to prevent over tightening.
 
The white stuff may be something like Tef-Gel which is PTFE based. Expensive but good stuff when using stainless fasteners in aluminum especially in a marine environment.
 
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