Tool holder holding a "T" cut off blade

darkzero said:
Yep, I've milled & turned China holders. They're not that hard. China hardened is not the same as USA hardened. :big grin:
Click to expand...

Yeah, either hardened too little or hardened too mush, Chinese hardening can be a real crap shoot.

I bought some cobalt drill bits from Graingers, they had a rainbow hue to them, the 3/8” rolled off the table, hit he floor and shattered into hundreds of pieces. I thought that was strange, so I purposely let the 5/16” bit, roll off the table, it hit the floor and shattered.

I took a different bit from one of the other serviceman’s box, the bit caught, the chuck kept rotating about a turn and boom the spiral in the bit was gone, twisted like a Twizzler. I show it to the other guy, he said yeah, he has 3 or 4 more, that that happened to.
 
Back to the original programming, I have 3 of the cut off tools holders, I never been able to get them to cut worthy a damn. I finally went to a carbide insert style cutter and moved on.
 
Managed to get it done with a 3/8" cobalt endmill. Quite a bit of burrs, though. Do you guys normally an endmill over the burrs or just use a file?
 
i use a aloris AXA tool holder. the AXA7 holder is made for this type of cut off tool that is wider at the top.
 
Interesting subject. My only experience is with the P type blade using a BXA Phase 2 holder in my old 13" South Bend vs. the Clausing Colchester 15 (CXA Aloris #7).
The SB chattered something fierce. The Clausing cut through with no chatter or whining.
Rigidity is key.
I never thought about cutting a relief, don't need it.
Let us know how how it goes with the holder cut PCmaker.
 
It's working fine now. I cut the relief and it's straight enough. The problem is that even though there's a relief, the entire blade is tapered. It has a "T" at the top, and the bottom is tapered. The relief helps a lot. Just had to straighten the blade vertically, and the side of the blade doesn't even touch the inside wall of the tool holder because of the taper. Just had to put a lot of pressure on the top retaining block, forcing down on the top of the blade to keep it straight. So far, i've been parting with no issues. I've even been using the auto feed on the cross slide and works great.
 
I milled a relief on mine from LMS. I used a carbide end mill as the hss end mill I tried first just burned up. The LMS holders are hardened.
The holder still holds the non T type properly.

Roy
 
Question for those of you who have modified your cutoff tool holders for P-type blades: Do they perform better after the modification?

I use P-blades in an unmodified holder. Worst thing that I get is an angled cut, presumably from deflection. I set blades to the depth to center, never more, for each and every parting job. I'd love to get a square cut out of a squarely positioned tool. Any other improvements would be welcome.
 
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