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Tool Post Holder
- Thread starter mickri
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2016
- Messages
- 2,645
Finally got to fixing the base and the post from moving. I did two things. First I welded the post to the base. To do this I mounted everything on the compound and tacked the post to the base in four places roughly equally spaced around the post. The base wasn't really thick enough to mill off a portion leaving a protrusion to fit the slot in the compound. So the next thing that I did was to cut a piece of 1/8 steel to precisely fit the slot on the compound. I then tack welded it to the base with everything mounted on the compound. Both of the tack welding was a little nerve racking because I was worried about splatter from the welding damaging the lathe. My welder is a little HF flux core welder. Not the best but it got the job done. I did the final welding in one of my vises.
The really tricky part of this fix was turning the post at the base back down to the correct diameter so the tool holders would slide all of the way down the post. The threading tool holder has to sit on the base to be on centerline for threading. It was a long reach for a tool to get in there and it had to cut right up to the base. The area I needed to turn was maybe an eighth inch wide. I first tried my parting tool held in a lantern. The blade had to be so far out that it just bounced around when I tried to make a cut. So I took a piece of 3/8 HSS and ground the end similar to a parting blade. This worked. Here is the completed fix. Did not take pictures of my set up to turn the post. I can recreate if anyone is interested.
I am sure that some of you will notice that "T" bolt is perpendicular to the locating piece welded to the bottom of the base. I just did not straighten it to the correct orientation when I took the picture. Oh well. The "T" bolt is made out of a carriage bolt. I milled the flats on the bolt to be truly flat and not angled. The sides of the head were also milled to fit as was the top of the head.
This afternoon I used the tool post holder to finish cutting the threads on my ER32 chuck. No more movement and only took a reasonable amount of tightening to hold everything in place.
The really tricky part of this fix was turning the post at the base back down to the correct diameter so the tool holders would slide all of the way down the post. The threading tool holder has to sit on the base to be on centerline for threading. It was a long reach for a tool to get in there and it had to cut right up to the base. The area I needed to turn was maybe an eighth inch wide. I first tried my parting tool held in a lantern. The blade had to be so far out that it just bounced around when I tried to make a cut. So I took a piece of 3/8 HSS and ground the end similar to a parting blade. This worked. Here is the completed fix. Did not take pictures of my set up to turn the post. I can recreate if anyone is interested.
I am sure that some of you will notice that "T" bolt is perpendicular to the locating piece welded to the bottom of the base. I just did not straighten it to the correct orientation when I took the picture. Oh well. The "T" bolt is made out of a carriage bolt. I milled the flats on the bolt to be truly flat and not angled. The sides of the head were also milled to fit as was the top of the head.
This afternoon I used the tool post holder to finish cutting the threads on my ER32 chuck. No more movement and only took a reasonable amount of tightening to hold everything in place.
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2016
- Messages
- 280
I'm with Winegrower on his post. QC tool holders are relatively cheap so you can buy lots of them and have true "Quick change" capability. Having to readjust tool ht. for every tool change seems like a huge waste of time. Make yourself a height gage for when it is required.
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2016
- Messages
- 3,857
Larry I need to clear up a misunderstanding, again, if I may. My 4-way carbide tooling are NEVER adjusted for height.
- They have been milled and ground so they are ALWAYS at the correct height.
In fact, I'm fiddling my QCTP holders from time to time, but never my 4 way.
- They have been milled and ground so they are ALWAYS at the correct height.
In fact, I'm fiddling my QCTP holders from time to time, but never my 4 way.
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2016
- Messages
- 2,645
One of the next batch of tool holders that I plan to make is going to be a 3 way for the 3 tool bits that I use most often. Can't do a 4 way because I need one side for the clamping screw. I will do like Dabbler did and grind the bits to all be the exact same height.
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2016
- Messages
- 280
Dabbler, I've got a few HSS tools with a top rake. Seems like those would need shimming after a sharpening. My parting tool holder mounts the blade at an angle, so every time I change the cutting depth, the tool holder needs adjusting up/down. I've never had the pleasure of using a 4 way tool post so I don't have a clue how such things are compensated for.
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2016
- Messages
- 3,857
ah. So here's what I do: I keep 4 way, lantern, and QCTP tool posts for my lathes. I love the QCTP in many contexts, but for carbide insert tooling, I go to my 4 way a lot.
- now for HSS I usually use the lantern - for all my 1/4 by 1/4 tooling. I recently have gotten a bunch of 1/2 X 1/2 hss tools, and I'm going to start by using them in the QCTP.
That being said, my tool height is .609 from the bottom of my 4 way so I'm making a permanent 'sled' Kinda of a shim, but with sides for my 4 way that will bring the tip to the centre height. For HSS regrinds, the QCTP is prpbably the way to go if you don't have lantern tooling.
- now for HSS I usually use the lantern - for all my 1/4 by 1/4 tooling. I recently have gotten a bunch of 1/2 X 1/2 hss tools, and I'm going to start by using them in the QCTP.
That being said, my tool height is .609 from the bottom of my 4 way so I'm making a permanent 'sled' Kinda of a shim, but with sides for my 4 way that will bring the tip to the centre height. For HSS regrinds, the QCTP is prpbably the way to go if you don't have lantern tooling.
¼" sq tools are perfect for the tool post on a Taig 
With bigger lathes, they are best in the toolholders typically used with a lantern toolpost, although if you're set up for ½" tooling, you can always use a second ¼" blank tool bit as a shim.
I bought enough QCTP tool holders from the start that I really don't have any reason to use the 4-way. In fact, I have never cleaned the factory anti-corrosion grease off of it—it just lives in a box on the floor behind the lathe.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
With bigger lathes, they are best in the toolholders typically used with a lantern toolpost, although if you're set up for ½" tooling, you can always use a second ¼" blank tool bit as a shim.
I bought enough QCTP tool holders from the start that I really don't have any reason to use the 4-way. In fact, I have never cleaned the factory anti-corrosion grease off of it—it just lives in a box on the floor behind the lathe.
Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2011
- Messages
- 191
here are my tool holders, about 25 years ago these holders were sold as a kit for I believe $45.00 you got the drawings and some metal to make a certain series i.e 900 this one is perfect for 9-12 lathe I have an Atlas 10F I love these things. make your own and learn
