[Metrology] Triple V Ways Leveling

[Bamban]

Getting the garage re-arranged for better access to the cramped space, had to move the smaller equipment around. In the process of leveling the lathe.

I think I know the answer, I just need to bounce if off you guys as to which way is the correct on leveling a lathe with 3 V ways. The carriage rides on the V ways and not on a V way and Flat way, I can read the level on top of the 3 V ways or read it with the level sitting on top of a 1-2-3 block. Due to the width between the double V way, even the 1 inch side will not fit, so I have to use one block only to rest the level.

This is on the 1024 lathe, on my 1236 the carriage rides on one V and on the flat.

Input?

Thank you in advance.

 

[4GSR]

Method 1 is the way I generally use for leveling my lathes. The level should lay flat on all three vee's. If not take a two pieces 1/4" or 3/8" Rex 95, measure them to make sure they measure the same or as close as you can find two that will match. place these under the level on the two outer most vee ways. Take your measurements. The other perferred method people use is place the level on the saddle adjacent to where you have it setting on the ways in picture one. Clean the surfaces with a oil stone to remove the rust, dings, burrs, before placing the level on the saddle. Move the carriage from end to end making adjustmenst as you go. Do this only if you know your bed is in good shape with no wear. Your bed looks to be in good shape. Ken

 

[John Hasler]

The other perferred method people use is place the level on the saddle adjacent to where you have it setting on the ways in picture one. Clean the surfaces with a oil stone to remove the rust, dings, burrs, before placing the level on the saddle. Move the carriage from end to end making adjustmenst as you go. Do this only if you know your bed is in good shape with no wear.

Why not always use the saddle? Seems like the worse the ways the more reason to do so.

 

[Bamban]

Stoned any burrs and rust on the saddle and stuck the level on it, here is the picture. Looks like the level orientation in this method is the same as the reading derived when the level is resting on the 1-2-3 block. The level is square with the saddle, the camera angle suggests otherwise.

Does this situation mean I need to level using the saddle? Or is there something awry with the lathe that needs to be fixed?

 

[4GSR]

Why not always use the saddle? Seems like the worse the ways the more reason to do so.

It would work. But my experience is the wear is not even from front ways to the rear ways. Its almost inconsistent. Plus doing so will create a twist in the t he bed, which many will do to straighten up the cut. Not saying its bad practice, not good practice either.

 

[John Hasler]

Does this situations means I need to level using the saddle? Or is there something awry with the lathe that needs to be fixed?

Why would there be anything wrong with it? Run the carriage from one end to the other with the level in place. If the bubble doesn't move (and isn't all the way to one end of the glass) Bob's your uncle.

 

[joshua43214]

You should have virgin way surfaces at the extreme ends of the ways where the carriage can not reach.
I would put the level on something that supports the entire level from end to end and is machined flat.
Good levels are slightly bowed on the sole, not sure about yours though.

Keep in mind what you are trying to accomplish here. It is not important that the machine be level. It is important that the ways are all in the same plane. The whole lathe can be tilted off in one direction or the other, provided the whole lathe is tilted the same. Ship board lathes for instance are never level. Having a machine level can be handy at rare times for setting up work with a level. For instance, if the lathe is level, you could chuck long stock and put a level on it to get it close to alignment with the bed before actually dialing it in. Sort of a waste of time since you can just site over the work to the bedways just as accurately.
Don't sweat getting it perfect. You will probably just be putting a twist in the bed later on to correct an minor taper cut anyway.

How long have you had that level? I ask because if it is new, I would send it back and get a Starrett 98 off Ebay. You can get a 6" for about the same price as the cheap import "master" levels. Not only is that level about 10x more precise than it needs to be, you will drive yourself crazy chasing the bubble. Just the heat from your hand or a lamp is enough to send the bubble running off. The reason they are so cheap is that a nearly straight vial is far cheaper to grind than one with a bow like a well made level has. Only really high end machines that are properly bedded to the floor need a level that good, and it is used after a regular machinist level is used.

 

[Bamban]

Putting the level on the extreme ends resting in the V ways whether directly or resting/reading off a 12 inch parallel, the readings says it is leveled front to back and no twist. Putting the level on the sadddle or on the flat, the readings say the operator side is higher and reading does not change cranking the saddle to both travel limits.

Questions:

Without any actual cutting to find out, would this situation cut a taper or not?

Should I just leave it the way it is?

 

[John Hasler]

Putting the level on the extreme ends resting in the V ways whether directly or resting/reading off a 12 inch parallel, the readings says it is leveled front to back and no twist. Putting the level on the sadddle or on the flat, the readings say the operator side is higher and reading does not change cranking the saddle to both travel limits.

You're perfect. Bob *is* your uncle.

 

[4GSR]

...snip....

Should I just leave it the way it is?

Leave it as it is. As long as you get the same reading from end to end, it is good. If you want, put a small thickness of shim stock under one end of the level to bring up the bubble to the middle. At least that will tell you the difference in height from front to back.