- Joined
- Apr 5, 2011
- Messages
- 121
OK here is a rough sketch of what I was talking about. In this case you could use a chuck and tail stock centre. The cup can be made of solid aluminum about 6 inch diameter and about 3 inches thick for each or you could make it from steel as a weldment. Start by cutting/machining a 6" disc and a piece of pipe about same size and about 1 1/4" long. Weld them together like a cup. Next take a piece of round solid about 2 - 2 1/2 " diameter by about 1 1/2" long and weld it onto the centre of the disc on the out side. Then chuck the cup in the lathe by the small extension you welded on and bore a hole through it from inside the cup to match the diameter of the shaft for a comfortable sliding fit. Your shaft should be about one inch in diameter. Make a light facing cut inside the cup or at least make a small chamfer on the face of the hole so the centre will run true. Now bring the tail stock centre up to the hole and face off the front of the cup. Divide the cup face into 5 approximately equal parts. Now you need to leave 5 pads about 1" wide and remove some material between by milling or grinding it away You only need to remove about 1/16" or so. This is to allow you to straddle the stud holes where the drum might be distorted slightly. In use try to line up the pads on both sided of the drum to get a good grip.
I think the shaft and cones are self explanatory. I would make the cones from a pieces of solid by first boring the hole while held in the chuck. Then you might want to chuck up the shaft. You can make a few sleeves from pipe and hold your cone blanks between them using the nut to lock them in place. Cut your taper using the compound. Make sure you use your tail stock centre on the shaft.
You will want a fairly stout boring bar with the tool bit on a 45 across the end.
You can use spacers on the shaft to get your drum/rotor into a comfortable position.
For rotors you can cut one side and then turn it over or you can remove your tool post and bring your carriage over so you can set the tool post on the other side. Remember that there are limits as to how much you can take off. Also the spacer in front of the nut would be better if it was two sections with a piece of rubber in between them. This will compress some when the nut is tightened without putting excess pressure on the cones or bearing cups which could prevent damaging either one.
If you are making this from a chunk of aluminum I would make the cup more like a dish so as to have more clearance for the boring bar.
You can finish this further by machining the inside and outside of the cup as well as facing off the end of the extension. I would do this last operation using the shaft or a piece of the same size in your chuck and the tail centre against the extension. Your chuck will drive the face of the cup. Any questions you may contact me for answers.
When it comes to those newer thin discs I would replace them rather than fool with them. The prices are so low on them that they are not worth fooling with.
I bought a brand new Amco machine in 1974 for $2100 and used it for 20 years almost daily. I was the only one using it and I am fussy with my tools. 20 years later the salesman that sold it to me offered me $2300 for it. That was the best investment I made.
Regards, Nick
I think the shaft and cones are self explanatory. I would make the cones from a pieces of solid by first boring the hole while held in the chuck. Then you might want to chuck up the shaft. You can make a few sleeves from pipe and hold your cone blanks between them using the nut to lock them in place. Cut your taper using the compound. Make sure you use your tail stock centre on the shaft.
You will want a fairly stout boring bar with the tool bit on a 45 across the end.
You can use spacers on the shaft to get your drum/rotor into a comfortable position.
For rotors you can cut one side and then turn it over or you can remove your tool post and bring your carriage over so you can set the tool post on the other side. Remember that there are limits as to how much you can take off. Also the spacer in front of the nut would be better if it was two sections with a piece of rubber in between them. This will compress some when the nut is tightened without putting excess pressure on the cones or bearing cups which could prevent damaging either one.
If you are making this from a chunk of aluminum I would make the cup more like a dish so as to have more clearance for the boring bar.
You can finish this further by machining the inside and outside of the cup as well as facing off the end of the extension. I would do this last operation using the shaft or a piece of the same size in your chuck and the tail centre against the extension. Your chuck will drive the face of the cup. Any questions you may contact me for answers.
When it comes to those newer thin discs I would replace them rather than fool with them. The prices are so low on them that they are not worth fooling with.
I bought a brand new Amco machine in 1974 for $2100 and used it for 20 years almost daily. I was the only one using it and I am fussy with my tools. 20 years later the salesman that sold it to me offered me $2300 for it. That was the best investment I made.
Regards, Nick
