good advice too, thanks all. Still no idea about the OP (original problem) but the parts are getting made so no problemo. ;-)ou have lots of advice at this point.
good advice too, thanks all. Still no idea about the OP (original problem) but the parts are getting made so no problemo. ;-)ou have lots of advice at this point.
good advice too, thanks all. Still no idea about the OP (original problem) but the parts are getting made so no problemo. ;-)
Right, it would have only taken one loose chucking /hard cut because once it "walked" it would cut a deeper tap and been useless going forward. Makes sense. I'll take a look today and will get backMy guess as to the original problem, after the first couple you did, you might not have been clamping it tight enough to hold the bolt from turning a little bit. It wore the alum threads a bit, and then wouldn’t hold the bolt again true and tight.
I'm not sure what you mean by wide, it which direction? No matter the width isn't it really only the pointy end of the spear that is cutting? How does width effect point of contact with the work? How the toolbit is shaped, relieved, raked - yes but width? I'm not seeing it. Do you mean angled? bc yes the tip if it's angled wrong will ride like a sailboat.Cutter may be too small and riding existing threads. Try a wide cutter. Al
If it slips again I like the idea of bolting it front and back but trying to keep the change outs quick if I can, right now a few seconds on the grinder just makes the whole thing easy. Also finding the 316 cuts a lot easier than I thought.Here is my input.
The very first photo for reference.
Make it a but shorter
Remove enough to allow for another nut and washer to be added.
Now, put nuton front, tighten against spacer, place washer in front of not, this is optional shield and stop indicator.
Sneak up on final diameter on first bolt, but do NOT go to washer, go just far enough to get final diameter.
Once there, proceed until tip of cutter touches washer, the washer will stop turning and cutter good.
Replace bolt, now do cut in one pass.
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A clamping pressure argument applies here; the 'like a collet' item gets good engagement when it is threaded,like a 5c collet
Are you saying it's better to pinch just the front of the work near cutter? With a straight rod I would want maximum engagement in the holder wether it's in a jaw, collet or coupling. Standard disclaimer here, I am not an engineer!A clamping pressure argument applies here; the 'like a collet' item gets good engagement when it is threaded,
and good elastic deformation (locking the workpiece position) when the region of high pressure is only the
tip end, one or two diameters of the workpiece. The tail of the collet helps alignment, but doesn't
press into the work. The long engagement of the three-jaw chuck is hurting the deflection
requirement of the holds-the-work end; this argument says the nose of the colletlike item will
be holding the work, and the tail of the collet-like item should be relieved (lesser outer diameter).