Vevor lathe need guidance.

Your tail stock isn't resting on the V-shape part of the bed. It is probably way to high so if you drill, your holes are a bit tapered and wider at the beginning. Also turning using a live center or between centers could be a problem.
I think the cause is the hold-down plate. Unscrew the hold-down plate and check it it gets better. If so, try all 4 positions and check if the problem is solved.

A 0.0005" taper over 6" is quit good, I would be pleased with that.

0.0005" runout of a turned part should be better. You should check the play of your spindle bearings. Only if the lathe has conical or contact angle bearings, the play can be reduced by tightening (preloading) the double nut or split nut at the back of the spindle. If you tighten them to fast, your bearings wear faster. You can check this by removing the drive belt and rotate the spindle by hand. If it takes slightly more force to rotate the spindle, you over tightened the nut. You can tighten the nut by your fingers, no tool needed. After the preload is OK, you can lock the nut using the second nut or the 2 bolts on the split nut. After that, check if the spindle still rotates freely.
 
This has came up in multiple threads im pretty sure. All the seig based lathes sit flat properly. The vevor ones do not but they are aligned properly as they sit. As far as I understand it.
 
Your tail stock isn't resting on the V-shape part of the bed. It is probably way to high so if you drill, your holes are a bit tapered and wider at the beginning. Also turning using a live center or between centers could be a problem.
I think the cause is the hold-down plate. Unscrew the hold-down plate and check it it gets better. If so, try all 4 positions and check if the problem is solved.

A 0.0005" taper over 6" is quit good, I would be pleased with that.

0.0005" runout of a turned part should be better. You should check the play of your spindle bearings. Only if the lathe has conical or contact angle bearings, the play can be reduced by tightening (preloading) the double nut or split nut at the back of the spindle. If you tighten them to fast, your bearings wear faster. You can check this by removing the drive belt and rotate the spindle by hand. If it takes slightly more force to rotate the spindle, you over tightened the nut. You can tighten the nut by your fingers, no tool needed. After the preload is OK, you can lock the nut using the second nut or the 2 bolts on the split nut. After that, check if the spindle still rotates freely.
Well it looks like the first picture of the foot plate was deceptive. I think what looked like a gap in the v groove was bad lighting. See attached pictures. The center alignment is as good as I can get it! Now for the turned run out. No play in the spindle bearings but the chuck mounting bolts were in my opinion to loose. The lock washers were not even compressed. I tighten them and turned some aluminum and the pic shows max runout. The gague reads in thousands and it barely moved the needle as shown. I need a better gague! I think I am good to go. Thanks
 

Attachments

  • 20231125_194945.jpg
    20231125_194945.jpg
    169.3 KB · Views: 49
  • 20231125_195041.jpg
    20231125_195041.jpg
    136.9 KB · Views: 50
  • 20231125_200901.jpg
    20231125_200901.jpg
    186.8 KB · Views: 54
Well it looks like the first picture of the foot plate was deceptive. I think what looked like a gap in the v groove was bad lighting. See attached pictures. The center alignment is as good as I can get it! Now for the turned run out. No play in the spindle bearings but the chuck mounting bolts were in my opinion to loose. The lock washers were not even compressed. I tighten them and turned some aluminum and the pic shows max runout. The gague reads in thousands and it barely moved the needle as shown. I need a better gague! I think I am good to go. Thanks
I think you are ready to go forth and make stuff! Have fun!
 
Back
Top