VFD install question

Great white hunter

Great white hunter

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I just bought a teco 2hp jnev-202-h1 VFD and I was wondering if you have to have all the things they say to use like ground fault detector or line filters? The way I was going to do it is breaker box-fused disconnect-line filter-VFD. Does this sound OK? It says not to use breakers for off/on switch. Where do you put the off/on switch? Can I use the fused disconnect for the on/off switch? Thank you Jason:think1:
 
jason nosse said:
I just bought a teco 2hp jnev-202-h1 VFD and I was wondering if you have to have all the things they say to use like ground fault detector or line filters? The way I was going to do it is breaker box-fused disconnect-line filter-VFD. Does this sound OK? It says not to use breakers for off/on switch. Where do you put the off/on switch? Can I use the fused disconnect for the on/off switch? Thank you Jason:think1:
Click to expand...
I am using my breaker as on/off for the power to my jnev. It is just reducing the life of my breaker. No big deal. I mean if you think about it cutting power from the vfd is cutting power from the vfd no matter how you slice it. It is also working great on my mill without the optional filters and such. Some recommend checking it out without them to see if you even need them. Do you anticipate the need to filter out interference? I see no benefit to adding a fused disconnect to the power after it comes from a breaker that eliminates the need for a fuse. It makes an unhandy switch also. At least the style I'm used to seeing requires unplugging a large plastic plug with metal prongs. If you want you can run the power from the breaker up to the machine and install a nice emergency off switch and then take the power from it to the vfd. From the vfd outputs to the machine motor. That would extend the life of your breaker. I run all functions like fwd rev on off speed ect from my vfd. You can use original switches as 12v inputs to the vfd if you set it up to recognize them. You can't wire them in to the output wires from the vfd though. Tempting, but a no no. Enjoy your Teco, I sure do! From a Step pulley to variable speed and single phase to clean three phase all in one simple box.
 
Thanks alot for the info. Its just when I looked it the instructions and seen all the crap they say to install before the VFD I crapped my pants. I have freinds that don't run any of that stuff and they have been fine but I just wanted to make sure. Thank you.
 
I guess Im like your friends, I run my VFD's bare bones...

The VFD is not an energy hog - around 8 amps? so a common on/off switch will suffice. I use a common on/off toggle rated for 220v and 20amp.

All you want to do is turn the power to the VFD on and off, thats all, just like you would turn a light or fan or your computer on. All the rest of the functions are handled by the VFD thru the very small row of terminals inside the cover. Three phase coming out of the unit will go directly to the motor - this is where there is to be NO switching done - then to control start/stop/reverse/etc is accomplished through those small terminals. Here again, common switches can be used, the voltage here is 24v (IIRC)

Here is my Hitachi switch panel on the left is the power for the VFD, middle is to control fwd/off/rev, and then the potentiometer. (the original sw on the mill is not used, is simp)ly left in the position shown

HitachiVFD.jpg

This is the inside - The wires along the bottom are to bring the switched 220v in and the 22v 3 phase out, the small wires at the top control the functions. Yours will no duobt look somewhat different, but should be very similar.
misc006.jpg
 
The only problem with using a breaker for an on/off switch is that a breaker is rated for its amperage and to cycle only so many times - about 25 if you keep turning the breaker on and off, some breakers will not hold their rated current but become weaker - I don't know if this is the case for All breakers, but it used to be so. Why don't you put a on / off switch that is a double pole, single throw which means it has 2 sets of terminals or 4 to 6 terminals. Wire each leg of the 220 volts to one side of the switch and connect the receptacle to the other.

1 side of 220 V breaker ..................| switch |............................receptacle --------------------------------------- VFD
1 side of 220 V breaker ..................| switch |............................receptacle ----------------------------------------VFD
Bare Copper inside breaker panel ------------------------------------- Green Terminal of receptacle -------------- VFD
 
Pmedic828 said:
The only problem with using a breaker for an on/off switch is that a breaker is rated for its amperage and to cycle only so many times - about 25 if you keep turning the breaker on and off, some breakers will not hold their rated current but become weaker - I don't know if this is the case for All breakers, but it used to be so. Why don't you put a on / off switch that is a double pole, single throw which means it has 2 sets of terminals or 4 to 6 terminals. Wire each leg of the 220 volts to one side of the switch and connect the receptacle to the other.

1 side of 220 V breaker ..................| switch |............................receptacle --------------------------------------- VFD
1 side of 220 V breaker ..................| switch |............................receptacle ----------------------------------------VFD
Bare Copper inside breaker panel ------------------------------------- Green Terminal of receptacle -------------- VFD
Click to expand...

OK, I will go with the off/on switch. Thank you for all the info.
 
My VFD hasn't arrived yet, but I've got the wiring in place. This is the switch I used: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...ble-Pole-Switch-White-R62-03032-2WS/100356941

No idea if it's the proper size for your setup, but it will be easy to put it in a box before the VFD. The place where I bought mine said you aren't supposed to switch the line, but that guys do all the time. Something about losing your programming if unpowered long enough? I can't see leaving one running all week if you only work on weekends so I intend to experiment.

-Ryan
 
I have 4 VFD's NONE have any of the following: "Magnetic Contactor", "AC Reactor", "Input Noise Filter" or "Output Noise Filter".

I do have a heavy duty 220V switch on the input side of the VFD so I can power it down when I am out of the shop. This probably isn't really required. All of the actual switching for control of the machine is done using the low voltage control terminals of the VFD. I only use the input side switch when the machine is shut down and I am done with it for the day.
 
I try to stay out of the city, and there is no such switch in my home town. Next time I'm there though...
 
If you can't get the switch from Home Depot, go to hardware store or Radio Shack or a parts house like that and get a double pole switch rated for whatever amperage that your breaker is. If it is a 15 amp double pole, get a switch rated for 15 amps 220VAC, if it is a 20 amp breaker, switch needs to be rated for 20 amps 220VAC. You can get a blank cover plate in plastic or metal and bore holes to mount to box (screw holes top and bottom), Then drill appropriate hole to mach barrel of switch. You only need a toggle switch. I have made switch plates and switches for various projects this way. Just remember, the ground is not cut and does not go thru the switch. only each breaker has a line connected to the switch (one for each side if it is 220V 1 Phase). From the other side of the switch connect it to the load or receptacle. That way, you won't have to pay $$ for a $ switch. Most switches are rated for AC or DC, so get an AC rated switch. Most are universal.
 
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