Way oils, what is still available. What would be good for an old style lathe.

[Andre]

I know any oil is better than no oil but I've read quite a bit on the properties of different oils and it's given me a bias against using "motor oil" on a machine tool. As I understand it, motor oil is designed to keep particulates suspended in the oil so that they can be carried to the filter. Having metal particles suspended in the oil is exactly opposite of what you want to have happen on the ways, gears, or any sliding components.

Granted, in a non-production environment the wear caused by this might not be discernible for a long time and it's still less wear than you would get from an absence of oil. On the other hand, you are still causing more wear to your machine than you would if you were to use the correct type and grade of oil that it was designed for.

JMHO with a bit of OCD :biggrin:

-Ron

Even if motor oil (new of course) on ways does suspend particles, how much different is that over proper way oil? I'm sure way oil will do the same thing.

 

[OldMachinist]

Engine oils have additives to absorb/emulsify any water contamination so I'd stay away from using them for lubrication other than their intended use. That's why you get that milky oil if you get water/coolant in your engine. They are designed to do this so even if you get water/coolant in the crankcase you still get some lubrication instead of just sucking from a layer of water in the bottom of the sump.

 

[kd4gij]

Plus 1 onbar and chain oil. It is cheap and easy to find.It stays put and doesn't cloect chips.

 

[ScrapMetal]

Even if motor oil (new of course) on ways does suspend particles, how much different is that over proper way oil? I'm sure way oil will do the same thing.

Nope, way oil is engineered so that particles are not suspended in it. I suppose that in theory the metal particles (on a flat surface) would settle to the bottom or migrate out as the wipers contact it and chips don't tend to stick in it.

Oil is not just "oil".

JMHO

-Ron

 

[Andre]

Thanks for that info. I never use water based coolant and make sure to wipe the ways down before and after using the mill and usually between setups. The way wipers keep the ways oiled nicely so I just wipe off the oil when it gets dirty. Keep in mind my mill is from '48 and was used and abused in a filter factory. Spindle has 5 thou play with quill up and locked.......top quality oil is my least concern. If it were a new machine that would be a different story though.
My the way, does anybody here have experience with replacing the six BP M head bearings?

 

[Tozguy]

I know any oil is better than no oil but I've read quite a bit on the properties of different oils and it's given me a bias against using "motor oil" on a machine tool. As I understand it, motor oil is designed to keep particulates suspended in the oil so that they can be carried to the filter. Having metal particles suspended in the oil is exactly opposite of what you want to have happen on the ways, gears, or any sliding components.

Granted, in a non-production environment the wear caused by this might not be discernible for a long time and it's still less wear than you would get from an absence of oil. On the other hand, you are still causing more wear to your machine than you would if you were to use the correct type and grade of oil that it was designed for.

JMHO with a bit of OCD :biggrin:

-Ron

If you have found that engine oil causes more wear to your machine than way oil then you must have used a very sofisticated test procedure.

 

[Tozguy]

Engine oils have additives to absorb/emulsify any water contamination so I'd stay away from using them for lubrication other than their intended use. That's why you get that milky oil if you get water/coolant in your engine. They are designed to do this so even if you get water/coolant in the crankcase you still get some lubrication instead of just sucking from a layer of water in the bottom of the sump.

But engine oils also have rust inhibitors so that the water in the oil doesn't rust anything in the motor. Many machining coolant formula are water/oil emulsions with emphasis on the water. This constant exposure to water does not harm the lathe because of rust inhibitors.

 

[Silverbullet]

Some oils will harm a lathe , hd oils are made to carry dirt so it can be trapped in a filter. But I agree any oil is better then no oil. I'm also into using kerosene mixed in . A solution like eds red . You would be better using hydraulic fluid then motor oil.

 

[menace]

I have old iron and started out using Velocite and vactra and noticed the stiffness upon return to use ! Using velocite on one old timer, the spindle would heat up and seize up until while running . Reoiling would cure the problem temporarily until seizure would happen again. Let the carriage sit a few days and it would noticeably drag. I got a quart of Mobil full synthetic 0w20 and did the whole machine with it, gear train, carriage , tailstock, head stock, spindle, quick change, apron, lead screw, ways, anytinng that turns or moves and haven't had a problem since! It wasn't my frequent flyer and sometimes sat for months , but everything was still wet and turned or moved like silk! Under power it runs smooth and quiet! I use it on everything, and my 5gallon pails of velocite, vactra,and hyd just sit unused.
Anything (oil) that's filtered is only done as by-pass so I want solids and water to be suspended and wiped off before re-oiling. Nothing I have is rusty or shows any additional wear whatsoever. Synthetic oil seems to wick everywhere and stays there! I'm a HSM and use it everywhere with no regrets and no wear!

 

[Scruffy]

Same thing. I bought 5 gallons of Mobil Vactra #2 way oil 4 years ago. I got my American pacemaker a couple of years ago and it seemed when using a travel indicator on the carriage, it would hang then release, a real pain.
No problem on mill or shaper. I think the lathe is a lot less worn
I started mixing half and half shell rottela and way oil for the lathe .problem solved.only reason I use rottela is I buy in 5 gallon buckets.
Thanks ron