What are these pins that are holding this name plate on?

NortonDommi said:
They are 'Drive Screws' or that is what I know them as, they have a helical threaded shank. Most are RH . A pair of nail pullers pliers with a notch in the blades to grip the head are useful. use an old wood chisel with a shallow grind or bit of hacksaw blade ground on one side to lift the plate by getting between plate and case then switch to the pliers as soon as there is movement and wind out. Here is a link if you need any. https://www.hansonrivet.com/rivets/drive-screws/
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As NortonDommi noted we always referred to them as "drive screws". McMaster Carr refers to them as "screw nails"

They're primarily used to secure name plates, and other instruction plates to metal and plastic surfaces. I would also concur with his method of removal. I've removed dozens of name plates without damage by using either a sharp hollow ground chisel. Don't try to shear off the head. Just get under it enough to lift it. Once it starts to lift it will unscrew slightly and can be grabbed with a pair of pliers. If you're extremely careful they can be reused.
 
I've seen the suggestion to use a Dremel-type tool to create a screwdriver slot in the head. Use the screwdriver to try to unscrew the fastener. You may still have to use locking pliers or similar to pull it out but the twisting action ought to break any rust/corrosion bond.

Unless they are really loose, you are probably going to have to replace them for reassembly.

Craig
No, I haven't tried this myself but I intend to the next time I'm dealing with these.
 
WCraig said:
I've seen the suggestion to use a Dremel-type tool to create a screwdriver slot in the head. Use the screwdriver to try to unscrew the fastener. You may still have to use locking pliers or similar to pull it out but the twisting action ought to break any rust/corrosion bond.
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Because the head is oval shape you would have very little slot depth towards the perimeter where it is needed most. Sometimes on old stuff with even just a tiny bit of corrosion these pins are really difficult to remove, making it likely a screwdriver would just cam out and bugger up the slot. I have snapped the heads off trying to twist them with vise grips. With a slot in the head it would then be more difficult to drill it out if needed. Fortunately 90% of the ones I have come across have had through holes and could be knocked out from behind with a punch. With a blind hole and if marring the surface is not a concern, prying out is fine. But if you are removing from a soft brass, aluminum or painted plate that you don't want to damage, drilling is the best bet.
 
I agree with the commenters above that you probably won't need to drill them out. Most of the drive screws on my machines have also had small through holes so they could be driven out. Since they're threaded and slightly tapered, if you get them started they quickly begin to loosen and are easy to remove. For the ones that don't have through holes (usually where the cast iron casting is quite thick) I use a wood chisel and very carefully and lightly tap it between the drive screw head and the label, from a couple of different angles, usually without marking the label at all. Once it starts it's easy to get it the rest of the way out, turning it counter clockwise with pliers. McMaster sells several sizes, in boxes of 100, but you can almost always reuse the originals.
 
knocked hundreds of them out with gentle use of a modified 45° cold chisel
 
I use a putty scraper knife. As Elmer Fudd would say " Be very, very careful with those wascally wivets."
 
Pair of flush cutting dikes is what I would use; pinch and lift them out. Put tape to protect the nameplate- or perhaps a thin shim stock
Mark
 
These drive screws do not really "unscrew" the thread is more of a slow spiral. There will likely be less than one full revolution in the length of the screw. They will not so much unscrew as much as they will turn a bit while you pull them out.
 
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