- Joined
- Dec 18, 2019
- Messages
- 6,464
0.020" slitting saw, as photo shows in my first post..002 slitting saw? ICan barely keep a .002 feeler gauge from bending
0.020" slitting saw, as photo shows in my first post..002 slitting saw? ICan barely keep a .002 feeler gauge from bending
0.020" saw, just like the picture shows. Was only using 0.002" as an example. I had a 0.020" Malco slitting saw. Yes, that is past tense.Are your decimal points in the right place re blade thickness?
You just need to make a much larger arborI had a 0.020" Malco slitting saw. Yes, that is past tense.
Yes it was a new slitting saw. I will take a look at it.Was it a new slitting saw? Examine the teeth closely. Slightly dull on one side or uneven grind will cause the blade to deflect. I'm betting the part didn't move, the blade flexed due to unbalanced cutting forces.
I did put it in a collet. The TIR of the head is 0.013". Pulling out a random 5/16"-18 2" long SHCS and doing the same thing shows a TIR of 0.002". I don't want to turn the original screw head or alter it in any way, in case I have to return the arbor. I will turn down the 2" screw to 1-1/4" and try it. If it works, then all is good, except I am down a saw blade.If your going to chuck it up, just skim the head so it's concentric.
You are keeping me busy That is a good idea. Having found the SHCS with a 0.013" TIR makes me want to measure the TIR of the face.Looking again at the picture of the blade, it was obviously flexing around the arbor cap until it fractured. Chuck up the arbor by the shank and check the runout of the face that contacts the blade.