What causes slitting blade mistracking?

WobblyHand said:
I was cutting from the back of the piece going from right to left. Teeth facing to the left where contacting the work piece. Saw turning CW when looking down from the mill head. Saw arbor had clearance from both the vise and the work piece.
Click to expand...
From your description, it appears that you are using conventional cutting rather than climb cutting. Conventional cutting requires moire power and generates more heat than climb cutting.
 
WobblyHand said:
As a joke I get it, yeah the hole in the saw is bigger, so I need a bigger arbor.
Click to expand...
Yes , that WAS a joke . How were you cutting it though was a serious question . The material could have pinched the cutter and thus it broke .
 
If I indicate on a screw turned into the arbor, basically bottomed in the thread, and measure the TIR I find the screw has 0.036" TIR. Which is consistent with the screw head hitting the arbor cap. If you recall, I had 0 gap on one side and roughly over 0.03" on the other side.
PXL_20220407_140624072 (1).jpg
If I traverse the slide towards the chuck the needle doesn't change. Likewise if I rotate the chuck 90 degrees and traverse the slide towards the chuck. So the screw may be relatively straight, but offset from the arbor centerline. I will turn down the head of a screw. If that doesn't fix it, I am going to return this. This arbor isn't made correctly.
 
You're saying that the thread in the arbor is out .035 TIR ?
 
mmcmdl said:
Yes , that WAS a joke . How were you cutting it though was a serious question . The material could have pinched the cutter and thus it broke .
Click to expand...
I think later on I may have had a problem with pinching. This saw broke after only about 1" of cut. My conclusion is the arbor is machined wrong which can cause blade canting.
 
mmcmdl said:
You're saying that the thread in the arbor is out .035 TIR ?
Click to expand...
That is what it looks like to me! Correction, the TIR is 0.036" for the thread of the arbor.
 
WobblyHand said:
That is what it looks like to me!
Click to expand...
Strange , hard to believe they could make it that far off . o_O You could open it up and go with a bigger thread , but I think I would just send it back and try again . .017 is a mile off true position , still can't imagine how they machined it so far off . I'm guessing here , but maybe it was turned soft , hardened and then ground with the grinding not worried about the thread TIR . :dunno:
 
Just a thought. You might want to quickly confirm that your spindle is square to your table. If that blade goes in at a cant, its going to keep trying to dive into the workpiece.
Of course, I work for the auxiliary back up office of redundancy, so by nature, I have to double check everything, twice.............
Your set up is probably just fine.
 
mmcmdl said:
Strange , hard to believe they could make it that far off . o_O You could open it up and go with a bigger thread , but I think I would just send it back and try again . .017 is a mile off true position , still can't imagine how they machined it so far off . I'm guessing here , but maybe it was turned soft , hardened and then ground with the grinding not worried about the thread TIR . :dunno:
Click to expand...
I'm kind of astonished. For $56, or whatever I paid for this allegedly premium product, it doesn't seem so premium. I'd expect the hole to be on center, or at least close! I am going to return this arbor. It is clearly defectively made. And it cost me a saw blade.
 
Wouldnt the blade wobble when being turned by the spindle if the arbor was not square on the bottom? If it was off center, the blade would tell you as it tried to cut as the load changed. That to me could be a screw off center problem. If the bottom of the arbor is not square, I would think the blade would wobble.
Maybe I'm not understanding the problem.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top