What drives a BS-0 drive dog?

Reddinr said:
Another lazy dog.
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Your shop puppy reminds me of a day that still makes me feel kind of bad. I don't have a good way to access photos from here, so I'll have to post my shop dog some other time. She's a great dane boxer mix, and I got her a memory foam dog bed for the shop.

I had been trying to machine the top of a piece of railroad track for years, and I broke a lot of tools along the way while making a real mess of it. I finally got one of those carbide insert face mills. I went to town on the track, and that thing was just going to town like a champ, and leaving a beautiful surface finish to boot. Finally!

That's when I realized it was also throwing extremely wicked little blue C-shaped chips all over Her Majesty and her fancy new bed. Poor puppy!

Poor shop too, and poor beard. I was digging those chips out of my beard for a week. I really need to build some kind of acrylic enclosure before I use that tool on anything again. It makes a much larger and nastier mess than any other machining process I have yet encountered.

I finally got the railroad track anvil done though. About four years after I bought a real anvil, so I don't even need that one, or use it for anything. But the top is flat and shiny. So I win!
 
The trick with cast iron is to get the point of the tool UNDER the hard scale on the first cut and use a relatively fast feed and moderate cutting speed.
 
Yes, I realize this thread is a bit stale, but same problem. @dewbane Question is: do the Grizzly small bent tail lathe dogs actually fit the the BS-0 they sell? Practically none of the bent tail lathe dogs I've seen have any dimensions on them, save for the bore. The BS-0 I have, has an H carrier that is only 82mm long from end to end. If the tail isn't bent close to the carrier, it won't be captured by the H. Guess I could fab one from a ring and weld a flat tail on it. It's getting kind of meta, I'm making tooling to make fixtures, so I can use the tooling I bought, to actually making something. Perhaps I'm too impatient. Were you able to actually use your BS-0 on centers? If so, what did you end up doing?
 
Lathe dogs are not meant to be used with milling machine dividing heads, which require dogs with flat tails. If your lathe dog is made of steel rather than cast iron, you can forge down the tail and bend it so that the setscrew on the driver can bear against it, but even then they do not work really well because of binding due to any slight misalignment between the dividing head and its footstock. I solved this problem in the case of my #2 B&S dividing head by finding a Red E Dog driving device, which consists of a taper shank with attached bracket with a hollow radiused slot running parallel to the shank that receives a ball with a hole running through it that receives a round shank attached to a clamp driving dog that carries the workpiece; every part of it is finely fit so there is no backlash, and no binding.
 
I was right after all, it was made by the Red E Tool co. Here is a link to the catalog with a view of the driving dog setup.

red e tool co. - Google Search

www.google.com
The image appears in the second row down, at the left image.
 
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@benmychree that ebook was quite interesting. I don't understand how that milling dog works yet, much less make one like in the picture. Too inexperienced to understand it yet. If I'm following the picture, there's a straight tail dog, perhaps with an offset, and a clamp assembly that allows some minor rotation of the dog tail? The assembly then is retained by the drive? Sorry, I don't even have the vocabulary to describe it precisely. I was looking at the ebook on my phone and the picture was not too clear.

One thing I did notice was the prices for these accessories. 65 cents for a 1" tool! I'd pay that!
 
The Cincinnati one looks easy to make, the block is fastened into the "H" with a stud and nut from the back of the H, it carries two adjustable blocks on either side of the leg of the dog so that the adjustment can be made to fit snugly, or I suppose one block could be made solid with the base block and the other one made adjustable. I think if you see it larger than your phone allows, it will be clear as to how it works.
The Red E tool is more elaborate but is a better design in several ways; since neither are available commercially any more, the simpler Cincinnati design would be the thing to copy.
 
Viewing on a larger screen does help. On the jaws of the clamp of the dog, would they have a circular profile cut to help hold the round dog tail? Or a V notch? Goodness, falling deep into the rabbit hole! Not sure how I'd do it yet, but it seems possible (for me). Now to figure out how to sketch up the pieces. Looks like I have to make the offset dog. Can the offset dog be made of a lathe turned ring with a round rod welded to it? 1018?
 
The dog tail would fit between two flat surfaces so that it could move in and out to avoid binding, but the two jaws need to fit snugly against the tail to avoid backlash. A turned ring would not seat well against round workpieces; better would be two rectangular bars with vee notches centered on their length and clamped together with bolts near their ends, the tail could be mounted to one of the bars in a tapped hole. For the clamping holes, one should be tapped, and the other clearance drilled. The tail of the dog need not be offset, if the block that fastens to the "H" is tall enough. I made such a clamp dog for the first Red E setup that I had, where the dog parts were missing, but may years later I found a new complete unit on E Bay, which I use nowadays.
 
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