What is needed to learn the fine art of knurling on a mini-lathe? Is it possible?

Here is one with a 5/16" holder for $29.95:

Spring Loaded Clamp Type Knurling Tool 2" Inches Capacity 5/16" Shank for Lathes - - Amazon.com

Spring Loaded Clamp Type Knurling Tool 2" Inches Capacity 5/16" Shank for Lathes - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com

This one is $24.95:

2" Capacity Knurling Tool 5/16" - 8mm Shank to Hold in Quick Change Tool Post - - Amazon.com

2" Capacity Knurling Tool 5/16" - 8mm Shank to Hold in Quick Change Tool Post - - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com

I'm assuming you have a QCTP? you can use up to 1/2" holder with a 0XA QCTP. The original tool post on a minilathe is made for 5/16". I'm suggesting not buying the more expensive ones since you will most likely want to make your own when you have the equipment.

These should do what you want and give a decent knurl.

Roy
 
Yes, I have an OxA QCTP. Thanks! Can I just use a 250-001 normal holder?
 
Travers only has one knurler with a 1/2" shank, it is the one I linked to in my first post. It requires the extended cross slide kit and I had to make a new shank with the pivot moved to the end and a new pivot bolt (I have 6 or so of them with ground grip and large hex key head) and I made a bronze bushing/ sleeve as the pivot bore was too large. The knurler is quite massive for the minilathe but does a good job. It has what seems to be tapered pinned axles so changing out the wheels might be requiring more modification. Here are some photo's of it. The bolt and 1/2" square bar are part of the modifications along with a bushing. A mill is not needed to do this, just a lathe and maybe a reamer. Drilling the bushing and honing with sandpaper wrapped around a 1/4" rod would also do the job of fitting the bolt/bushing.
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Roy
 
WobblyHand said:
Yes, I have an OxA QCTP. Thanks! Can I just use a 250-001 normal holder?
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Yes, just the standard holder is all you need. If you prefer you can choose one on Amazon that has a 1/2" shank. Either one will work. Most of the knurlers Amazon has are exactly the same as LMS.
When you knurl make sure to use plenty of oil. Mikey and the machinists know a lot more about knurling than I do so I think they will give you lots of tips.
I included the photos of the Travis knurler just to give an idea of the size and the modifications required. I am not suggesting you go that route. I think Mikey's design is the best I've seen.

Roy
 
Thanks, Roy. I think the Eagle Rock design is a good one but it relies on mass for rigidity and stiffness. The key to improvement is to make sure the joint between the arms is free of play so the arms can't move too much. I like the Eagle Rock knurler but it won't fit on my Sherline and mine is stiffer, anyway. Thank you for your kind words regarding the design. I kinda like it, too.
 
Yes Mikey I agree about the eagle rock design. I didn't want to design my own at the time so I went with the beefiest one I could find. As soon as I get the chance I'm going to steal your design and make one. The one I have is able to turn the QCTP on its mount if too much pressure is applied. It will also stall out the lathe motor.

Roy
 
royesses said:
Yes Mikey I agree about the eagle rock design. I didn't want to design my own at the time so I went with the beefiest one I could find. As soon as I get the chance I'm going to steal your design and make one. The one I have is able to turn the QCTP on its mount if too much pressure is applied. It will also stall out the lathe motor.
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It looks like your cross slide will allow you to rear mount a tool. Have you considered making a solid rear mount for your scissors knurler? It might just work well enough to avoid having to make a tool, especially if you can improve the hinge joint. If you can do that, I would go that way myself.

I made my knurler because there was nothing out there that would fit on my lathe that was any good. The Sherline lathe only has 0.08HP but when the belt is in the low speed position, all the torque from the motor is available at low speed so my knurler will work amazingly well. Blew me away the first time I made a 90% knurl in 303SS in a single pass. Now I just assume, somewhat arrogantly I admit, that it will just work that way. I cannot knurl hard stuff in a single pass but I can do it on most common hobby shop stuff so ... good enough.
 
mikey said:
It looks like your cross slide will allow you to rear mount a tool. Have you considered making a solid rear mount for your scissors knurler? It might just work well enough to avoid having to make a tool, especially if you can improve the hinge joint. If you can do that, I would go that way myself.

I made my knurler because there was nothing out there that would fit on my lathe that was any good. The Sherline lathe only has 0.08HP but when the belt is in the low speed position, all the torque from the motor is available at low speed so my knurler will work amazingly well. Blew me away the first time I made a 90% knurl in 303SS in a single pass. Now I just assume, somewhat arrogantly I admit, that it will just work that way. I cannot knurl hard stuff in a single pass but I can do it on most common hobby shop stuff so ... good enough.
Click to expand...

Yes I've looked at that before. It's one of the projects that I want to make soon. Since I installed tapered roller bearings and tapered gibs on the carriage I've had no problems parting so I kind of put some projects on the back burner. It would be nice to see the knurl pattern better though.

At one time I was going to buy a Sherline. I know they are great little machines, higher quality than the Siegs. I installed a reduction pulley on my minilathe so I get about 30% more torque. It does what I need but could use more power. I think your skill plays a big part in the capabilities of that little lathe.

Roy
 
If I had your lathe, the first two projects I would make would be a rear mounted parting tool post and a rear mount for a knurler. The performance boost from rear mounting has to be experienced to be believed. If you think you can part now, try a rear mounted parting tool and you'll never go back to the front, Roy.

The Sherline lathe is tiny and you have to learn to work with it. The key reason I think it is a really good small lathe is the precision of the leadscrews and not so much skill. No kidding, I can literally cut what I dial in on that lathe. I can't do that even on my Super 11 so when I need precision, I go to the Sherline. Who knew?

I really think that most lathes can be improved with the right tooling. To get that tooling, you often have to make it but hey, that's what we do, right?
 
On my todo list Mikey. I have looked at both and yes they can be done.

I wish my little lathe had a dial it in lead screw like the Sherline. I think mine is graduated in quarter inch lines with 1/2" accuracy.

You bet making tooling is the fun part of this hobby. With this forum and guys like you helping everything is doable.

Roy
 
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