I'll keep them in mind should the need arise. However as far as drills are concerned, I think I have enough to cover the bases. I have numbers from 1 to 90, letters from A to Z and fractions from1/64 to 1" by 64ths, and larger drills to 1 3/4" by eighths. To be sure I have a sufficient number in stock I by sizes under 1" by the by the pack, (usually 10 to 12 per pack) and those over 1" individually as needed. I also have the bases covered for countersinks, counterbores, and reamers. Over the years I have modified or created grooving tools or other form tools from standard end mills or HSS lathe tool blanks.It can be made fairly quickly, when you don't have the correct size drill. It's for "when you absolutely, positively need that bit NOW!"
Nobody is. But faceless companies will all day long. Or anyone who can roll the cost into a quote/business expense . LolI was a bit surprised that anyone would be spending that kind of money on a blank
Broken drill bits and toasted end mills are tossed or lying around like cigarette butts to many of us, but there are bit blanks hidden inside of them. I make "blanks" more than I want to, so I have plenty without spending cash on them. Any of the cold working tool steels work great and don't cost much at McMaster by the stick. A few feet of 1/2 and 3/8 makes a ton of cutting tools. Drill rod and HSS blanks are eBay lot fodder and can be had for a song if you're patient and avoid the gougers.I was a bit surprised that anyone would be spending that kind of money on a blank
Yeah, me too. Now I am trying to figure out what, where and when.I am a little slow out of the gate. Had to google it, I had never heard of a D bit before.
I used a variation on a D bit to make a long-shank countersink for a project I was working on.
Call it a "V" bit since the included angle was 82 degrees. It worked just fine, at least on the aluminum "U" extrusion. I needed to countersink a hole on the inside of the extrusion so the countersink had to be long enough to go all the way to the other side. I turned the V on my lathe, then milled the flat face. After that I hardened it and touched up the cutting edge with a diamond hone.