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[benmychree]

Go a step further with a universal dividing head and have most all numbers up to over 1,000, including prime numbers.

 

[jmkasunich]

Thanks. Is there any limitations or major difference between a dividing head, rotary table and super spacer. Being a newbie I cant buy all at this time.

If you need the most basic divisions (2, 3, 4, and 6), there's something to be said for simple and cheap. Check out D. Gray's super simple indexing plates. https://d-gray-drafting-and-design.myshopify.com/products/indexing-plates-the-complete-kit

Not affiliated in any way, but I have a set and like them. I also have a dividing head and a rotary table, but for something like putting the square on the end of a lathe chuck key I'd use the plates or a collet block.

 

[Larry$]

I've got the 5C collet blocks and they are my go to if the work requirement fits. Disadvantage is needing a set of 5C collets by 64ths. ER collet blocks require fewer collets for a full set. Since I also have a 5C spin indexer & 5C lathe chuck the collets get used pretty often. I much prefer the 5C collets for smallish, short work, since they can hold with very little work into the chuck. ER collets aren't happy with work shorter than about 3/4 of the depth of the collet, ideally full depth. I do have an ER40 chuck & R8/ER40 adapter for my mill, & of course a set of collets. If I'm holding a cutting tool in a collet the ER system is better.

 

[Larry$]

I can hear it click to set position. Dividing head?

Yes, pretty sure it is a dividing head.
Over kill!
MrWhoopee has a much better method.

 

[projectnut]

Go a step further with a universal dividing head and have most all numbers up to over 1,000, including prime numbers.

I’m not sure if the previously posted L-W chuck is considered “universal” but 6 additional disks could be ordered upping the numbers to over 1,000. I’ve seen several sets available on eBay but they were asking more than I paid for the head,tailstock,and the #10 B&S dead center combined.

 

[Larry$]

I’m not sure if the previously posted L-W chuck is considered “universal”

A "Universal" dividing head is driven by the X axis feed screw on the mill. Looks like a PIA to set up. I've got a "Semi-universal" BS-1. No drive by the mill so no spiral gear cutting. Less of a PIA to set up but still is one.

 

[woodchucker]

depending on your needs, you may not need any of those. A collet block may be all you need, or a cheap spindexer.
if going a collet block, you can get 5c, ER32, ER40.. just figure out your future direction.
@MrWhoopee is correct, for this project all you need is a square.
You should also have a V block to stabilize the piece. You want 3 points of contact when you can.. 2 becomes less stable.

welcome to HM

 

[Rex Walters]

I'm with Mr. Whoopee here: a square is sufficient to make a chuck key.

That's kind of laughable coming from me though: I'm pretty much the poster child for TAS (tool acquisition syndrome). I tend to beg/borrow/buy/steal/make a new tool for the flimsiest reasons.

You'll almost certainly want to acquire some 5C collets and hex/square collet blocks eventually, if not a full blown indexer or dividing head. They are ubiquitous and not too dear if you buy used (or offshore). Even the offshore stuff is reasonable quality these days (though I still see "1 inch" collets that are really 25mm, and they all need deburring). It's usually wisest to just acquire the few sizes you KNOW you need, though, rather than "complete" sets. It won't take long to build up a decent collection if you hang out at enough machinist meetups.

One thing about indexing and orthogonal positioning that took me a while to learn: a grinding-vice, custom fixture, or even just a temporarily attached piece of scrap of convenient shape can often make positioning tractable (and accurate). Since we're usually removing material, it's not always obvious that ADDING something can often make the machining easier.

Joe Pi did a good job discussing indexing a few years ago:

-- note how his little indexing plate uses the "add something" idea. As he shows, dowel pins are GREAT for accurate positioning, too. Just drill and ream a few holes as needed and you can accomplish any geometrical positioning/alignment you can imagine.

Lastly, don't neglect extra stock in addition to vices/fixtures/attached-scrap. Not only does extra stock provide you something to hold onto while machining, if you think ahead you can use the shape of the stock to your advantage. You could, for example, turn the shaft of a chuck key out of square stock. Then to make the smaller square at the end, you could use the square extra stock to do the indexing (just rotating in the vice).

 

[rabler]

Another way to do this with high precision and no positioning tools beyond a vice and V-block would be to put the T handle in before milling the end. Then you could indicate the T handle flat to side mill two parallel faces, rotate the T handle and indicate the handle vertical and side mill the other two faces. There are some clearance challenges with that approach, but it's another way that would give you very good precision with no collets/chucks/rotary tables/super spacers, etc.

I went with @MrWhoopee's approach for the ones I've made.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

To add to the versatility of an indexer, many can be used in either the vertical, horizontal position, or any angle in between. Those that have a tailstock can be used for longer work pieces. The chuck can also be removed and replaced with a dead center.

This is an L-W 11" indexer with a tailstock. It came standard with 2 additional plates allowing all numbers up to 50, and all even numbers up to 100 with the exception of 96.

I like that, very nice. I have been looking at a Vertex dividing head, I am interested in cutting small gears....