What To Use For Cutting Lube?

Well, the reason I ask is I tried Marvel Mystery Oil. Not a good idea. It says flammable on the bottle and they ain't kidding.
Took a noob cut on a piece of steel and it started smoking. I was pushing hard enough I started getting real hot chips and it reminded me what the bottle said about being flammable. Opps. Nothing that a quick turn off the machine and blow hard on it to put it out. I have had several smallish fires while welding before, but not having a torch in hand, it was a bit of a shock. Learned two things, don't take a cut that fast and don't use Marvel Oil when cutting on a mill. I do use the stuff for tapping and it's a killer penetrating oil... Just not good for milling. But it too smells good.
 
If you're shop is in the basement, and anyone in the house is sensitive to smells, bacon fat is great. It works well and smells like you're cooking bacon. Who doesn't like that smell ? The only drawback is over time it will get a little rancid so you should trade it out for a fresh batch.

Steve t
 
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Two points to consider, a water soluble coolant is as the name implies, a coolant first and lubrication second. Straight cutting oil has terrible heat transfer properties yet excellent lubricity, soluble coolant has poor lubricity yet outstanding cooling properties.

Essentially there is little middle ground between the two, choose one method and have at it and you will soon find which method works for you..

Assuming that you are a hobbyist neither method will work well on an open machine as it will shoot both liquids straight at you, your walls, other machines and everything that you own, choose wisely.

If turning or milling low carbon steel your enemy is the Built Up Edge, this is where the cut material attaches itself to the tool cutting edge, this results in a finish that is completely awful in every way, any lubrication will help,

Aluminum wrought products are especially heinous at causing built up edge on end mills, it will essentially weld itself to the tool, the flutes will pack up with chips and the tool will break. Do a Google search for "removing aluminum from end mills", it may be enlightening if not entertaining.
 
Anybody ever try/use denatured alcohol on aluminum? Just saw it mentioned in a post from 'the forum that will not be mentioned'
I would worry about the flammability, but the poster claimed it was never a problem.


Stan,
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Lowes has Oateys pipe threading oil. Cheap snd local. I also get the gallon cans of WD-40 there, again cheap and local.
Look for any dented or damaged cans, somtimes you can get a discount.

As for mixing a homebrew I have heard that mixing a clorinated brake cleaner with sulfer based c/o was "the bees knees" for certain types of steel.

!!!!!!!!DO NOT DO THIS!!!!!!!

Heated chlorine makes VERY toxic gases, never use anything with chlorine for cleaning or lubricating anything in the shop.

Sent from somewhere in East Texas Jake Parker
 
:+1: on the Oateys thread cutting oil. Menards and Home Depot have it too. It's cheap and works good on steel. I prefer the clear thread cutting oil to the dark. It works better for me.

For aluminum I use WD-40. Harbor Freight has it in a gallon can, and also carries the trigger spray bottle to make it easy to use. In the long run, it's cheaper than the spray cans.

Jake is also "dead" on about the brake cleaner. Never use chlorinated *anything* where heat is involved. If you use a propane or kerosene heater in your garage, you can kill yourself just by spraying it anywhere in the garage. Nowadays there are lots on non-chlorinated and non-flammable alternatives.

GG
 
stevet said:
If you're shop is in the basement, and anyone in the house is sensitive to smells, bacon fat is great. It works well and smells like you're cooking bacon. Who doesn't like that smell ? The only drawback is over time it will get a little rancid so you should trade it out for a fresh batch.

Steve t
Click to expand...
I've considered bacon fat, but kinda concerned about the salt content. Bacon is, after all, pretty salty stuff. Plus there's crumbs, etc. So right now, I'm "boiling" about a pint of it with 3-4 quarts of water, to try to extract the salt. I'll skim and strain the result before I use it.
 
sgisler said:
Anybody ever try/use denatured alcohol on aluminum? Just saw it mentioned in a post from 'the forum that will not be mentioned'
I would worry about the flammability, but the poster claimed it was never a problem.


Stan,
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Stan, I have seen people using glycol windshield fluid as a coolant for aluminium on CNC machines. The finish was superb. It's cheap and is available at nearly any auto parts store or gas station.

Paul.
 
grumpygator said:
I like to think I'm thrifty..{Cheap}...I make my own.
1 Quart ATF
1 Gallon Kerosene or Diesel.
Total cost under $8.00 US.
I use a old Tuna can and a acid brush to apply.
No rust problems but it does smoke and smell under heavy cuts so adequate ventilation is required.
******Just Saying************Gator******************
Click to expand...


What is ATF please ?

Bill
 
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