Why is it acceptable

I emailed y'all Matt waiting on a reply for instructions. I'm totally willing to work with you. You personally have been great with customer service through this ordeal. I know you can make it right.
 
Here's the 3 jaw on indicator. Going from the back on this is really hard because there's some chamfered bolt holes that I show in the 2nd video. Everytime it hits one of those it jumps a bit. Took all of about one try to get this and the shim doesn't slip behind. I also got curious and tried it in every spindle hole and the mlm ost it runs out is like .002 which I think is in spec for this one I may be mistaken on that. I'll have to double check manual.
View attachment 20200220_141959.mp4
 
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Its a toss up. Send it back or wrap/glue a bit of 1000 grit wet & dry Silicon Carbide paper to the spindle abrasive out and lap the chuck.
 
I may have missed it going through the three pages too fast, but has bluing the spindle and checking the mating chuck bore and vicey-versy been performed?
I had a dingle-berry in the bore of one of my chucks that gave me fits.
Showed up once I blued it properly.
 
middle.road said:
I may have missed it going through the three pages too fast, but has bluing the spindle and checking the mating chuck bore and vicey-versy been performed.
Click to expand...

Haha No I haven't done that yet as I dont want to void possibility of a refund. Nobody has replied to my email asking if they'd back that kind of thing. Matt just wants me to send it back and I'm good either way.

Where can I get layout fluid locally? Dies it have to be blue or is red ok?
 
Auto parts stores usually have what you need, which is prussian blue, not layout fluid. Most auto parts stores should have permatex prussian blue. Spread a really thin amount on one side (spindle or chuck), put the chuck against the spindle and hold firmly (perhaps rock it a little). You'll see where it is worn off.

Color doesn't matter, and I cannot imagine it would void warranty any more than oiling the chuck would...
 
As a general comment, you normally do not measure the back or outer surface of the chuck to determine if it is running true. I have a number of high end chucks and they are all out ~0.001" in diameter and if I were to measure the back edge as you are doing, it has nothing to do with how true it holds the work. In fact a set-tru type of chuck you can move the whole chuck body around 0.004" to true up the work piece and/or account for some variations in the scroll or the diameter of the material. On a 4J independent it has no bearing on the function of the chuck as each jaw moves independently. Chuck up a piece of round stock and indicate out to around 6" to make sure it is running true or do a light test cut, there are various methods already described.The only indication that there would be an issue would spinning the chuck at high speed and having vibration because it is out of balance.

When you buy chucks they normally do not fit/adjust the chuck to the machine, that would only occur if it was shipped mounted. If you chuck had a back plate, in some cases you would need to do a skim cut and in some cases the registration step. Depends on the manufacturer and the type of chuck. SO if you but say a Bison chuck with a Bison back plate they will fit out of the box.

When mounting the chuck it is very important to mount it lightly tightening the cam locks at first and then repeat another 2-3 times getting it torqued down evenly in steps. The mark must be between the 3 and 6 o'clock indicators, they will not all match. Similar to torquing a motor head. On my lathe the chucks mount is very tightly to the spindle and sequentially tightening the cam locks is the only way to get the chucks to properly seat. It is so tight that I need to clamp a rod through the chuck for leverage or lightly tap the chuck with a soft mallet to get it to release. But the chuck back must fully seat, so if you can fit a 0.001" feeler and the mating surfaces are clean than you have a valid issue. I would exchange the chuck for a replacement since it is new and it appears that the spindle interface might be slightly high. FYI, I have two Bison chucks, a PBA, the 4J you have and an ER chuck that I made, the QMT 4J independent fits the same as the others and had almost no vibration even at maximum speed. Mine had balance weights on the inside, only chuck I have seen this. You will also find with carbide inserts that at least on these smaller machines you will end up running about 1/2 the box SFM ratings, the depth of cut and feed are more important to getting a good surface cut as well as the tool holder/insert properties. This has been discussed in depth previously.
 
None
mksj said:
As a general comment, you normally do not measure the back or outer surface of the chuck to determine if it is running true. I have a number of high end chucks and they are all out ~0.001" in diameter and if I were to measure the back edge as you are doing, it has nothing to do with how true it holds the work. In fact a set-tru type of chuck you can move the whole chuck body around 0.004" to true up the work piece and/or account for some variations in the scroll or the diameter of the material. On a 4J independent it has no bearing on the function of the chuck as each jaw moves independently. Chuck up a piece of round stock and indicate out to around 6" to make sure it is running true or do a light test cut, there are various methods already described.The only indication that there would be an issue would spinning the chuck at high speed and having vibration because it is out of balance.

When you buy chucks they normally do not fit/adjust the chuck to the machine, that would only occur if it was shipped mounted. If you chuck had a back plate, in some cases you would need to do a skim cut and in some cases the registration step. Depends on the manufacturer and the type of chuck. SO if you but say a Bison chuck with a Bison back plate they will fit out of the box.

When mounting the chuck it is very important to mount it lightly tightening the cam locks at first and then repeat another 2-3 times getting it torqued down evenly in steps. The mark must be between the 3 and 6 o'clock indicators, they will not all match. Similar to torquing a motor head. On my lathe the chucks mount is very tightly to the spindle and sequentially tightening the cam locks is the only way to get the chucks to properly seat. It is so tight that I need to clamp a rod through the chuck for leverage or lightly tap the chuck with a soft mallet to get it to release. But the chuck back must fully seat, so if you can fit a 0.001" feeler and the mating surfaces are clean than you have a valid issue. I would exchange the chuck for a replacement since it is new and it appears that the spindle interface might be slightly high. FYI, I have two Bison chucks, a PBA, the 4J you have and an ER chuck that I made, the QMT 4J independent fits the same as the others and had almost no vibration even at maximum speed. Mine had balance weights on the inside, only chuck I have seen this. You will also find with carbide inserts that at least on these smaller machines you will end up running about 1/2 the box SFM ratings, the depth of cut and feed are more important to getting a good surface cut as well as the tool holder/insert properties. This has been discussed in depth previously.
Click to expand...
Yeah idk what to think. Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to try to open the taper up a bit. I just grabbed some prussian blue.
 
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nighthawkFmobil said:
Haha No I haven't done that yet as I dont want to void possibility of a refund. Nobody has replied to my email asking if they'd back that kind of thing. Matt just wants me to send it back and I'm good either way.

Where can I get layout fluid locally? Dies it have to be blue or is red ok?
Click to expand...
Bluing the spindle to chuck was suggested very early on. It is basically one of the very first things you should have done. A 'sharpie' will not cut the mustard.
 
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