WM210V replacement parts

weston1968 said:
Yes, I have taken it apart. No worm gear. The Handle is connected to a 14T mod1 gear driving the 44T part of a dual gear 44T mod 1/ 20T mod. 1.25. This rides on the rack that is very close to mod 1.25. the handle is 25mm per turn.

(14T / 44T) x (20T) x (Mod 1.25 x Pi) -> 24.989941mm per turn of the Dial.

I assume when they mill the rack they fudge the pitch to yield 25.000mm per turn of the dial.

Almost every manual has it as a 44T/21T gear. The manuals are wrong it is 44T/20T.
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Yeah I didn't realize it was a mini lathe, Most only have a lead screw for threads and feeds.
 
I like Aliexpress, I've bought a lot of little do-dads and electronic parts there. The website is easy to use
 
weston1968 said:
Yes, I have taken it apart. No worm gear. The Handle is connected to a 14T mod1 gear driving the 44T part of a dual gear 44T mod 1/ 20T mod. 1.25. This rides on the rack that is very close to mod 1.25. the handle is 25mm per turn.

(14T / 44T) x (20T) x (Mod 1.25 x Pi) -> 24.989941mm per turn of the Dial.

I assume when they mill the rack they fudge the pitch to yield 25.000mm per turn of the dial.

Almost every manual has it as a 44T/21T gear. The manuals are wrong it is 44T/20T.
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Nope, no fudge of the rack. I ran my electronic lead screw 150mm and the dial came up 0.5 mm short. Tracks exactly with the calculations.
 
This board from Aliexpress has forward and reverse backwards. I contacted them about it and asked that they notify people about my fix, but they prefer that people consider the board incompatible with the WM210V's using the other type of controller.
 

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i have been finding a ton of wm210v stype parts available on aliexpress. from a carriage of 2 styles, to cross slides and more. go check it out for parts! i am working on making a custom carrage that is wider and I will run a custom cross slide with T-slots. i want the freedom to run a headless tool post for more ridgidity.
 
I think you will be disappointed. The lathe does not have enough rigidity. I have to take shallow cuts even with brass and aluminum. I had to completely disassemble debur, clean and locktite everything just to get a workable machine. I would not confuse these with a well made amercan lathe. With an ELS you can do some nice near precise threading work.
 
weston1968 said:
I have to take shallow cuts even with brass and aluminum.
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Can I ask what DOC you consider to be shallow?

I had to completely disassemble debur, clean and locktite everything
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I don't know about using locktite but eh, this is really a slightly bigger Chinese mini-lathe.

Disassembly, deburring, cleaning and adjustment to a greater or lesser extent (depending on the importer; Warco in the UK, for example, by most accounts do a better job of having their import products more immediately useable) is to be expected really. :dunno:

There are loads of videos on YouTube pretty much showing the preparatory steps one needs to take in varying degrees of fussiness.

There are also plenty of videos about improving the capability and rigidity at not great expense, and some just using tools like a drill press and hand tools.

Needless to say, none of these Chinese bench mounted lathes are Colchesters, Harrisons, or Southbends; one has to be prepared to work within the limitations of these machines or go bigger. Then again, to a greater or lesser extent, that's true of all machine tools. Nobody is going to be turning gin palace prop shafts on a Colchester Student ;)

It seems to me that the key with buying import lathes is picking the right importer, understanding the preparatory setup steps one will have to take and knowing the limitations of the machine.:)
 
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To cut an m20x1 thread takes a dozen passes
 
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