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X2 Mini Mill CNC Conversion?

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MGP

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motor wires if the same colors as your motor wiring diagram below for 4 wire motor are :
motor A ( black ) is A+ on controller (black coming out of shielded cable)
motor B (green ) is A- on controller (green " " )
motor C (red ) is B+ on controller (red " " )
motor D (blue) is B- on controller ( white coming out is the blue now )
leave plenty shield wire to ground one end inside enclosure to case
any guestions so far for motor to controller?
steve
Co control and drivers are the same thing?
 

jumps4

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once wired we will adjust the number 5 thru 8 switches to get the best setting at the lowest pulse per revolution we can get . some motors will hum or vibrate at low settings. we want to try to keep this as low as possible without humming and vibration the higher this setting the slower your mill will move without errors in mach3 and windows clock missing steps. all get set in motor testing later first lets get the wiring perfect.
steve
 

jumps4

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motor controller and driver is the same thing
you had co control ?
 

jumps4

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dont really need an ohm meter if all motor wire colors are correct and they seem to be.
but if you have it you can make sure your right before connecting the cable to the motor controllers. and make sure no wires are shorted to the shield wire or together. I know its new wire and should be good but testing is cheap. controllers are costly.
 

jumps4

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my fault
motor controller, control and driver are all the same thing
i will say breakout board for the only other card
take a pic of the terminals on your power supply and any labels or markings for me when you can no hurry.
steve
 

jumps4

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if you did not get one you will need a usb cord with the correct ends to go from the breakout board to your pc usb port to power the breakout board.
steve
 

MGP

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if you did not get one you will need a usb cord with the correct ends to go from the breakout board to your pc usb port to power the breakout board.
steve
I beleive it does come with one i will get a pic of the power supply
 

jumps4

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here is a pdf file for your power supply with wiring diagram
http://www.meanwell.com/search/s-350/S-350-spec.pdf
we will go through this when everything else is wired and before we connect it to your motor comtrollers
but first we will power it up and check output dc voltage.
you might download and save the pdf
steve
 

jumps4

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the ends of your wires should be twisted and solder coated prior to putting them into the terminals at the controllers, breakout board and power supply. this makes better connections and there will be no free strands to touch the wrong thing.
steve

tinned_wire_sml.jpg
 

MGP

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In my Post number 56 the Plug i have is that going to be ok to power up the power supply?
 

MGP

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the ends of your wires should be twisted and solder coated prior to putting them into the terminals at the controllers, breakout board and power supply. this makes better connections and there will be no free strands to touch the wrong thing.
steve
What solder should i get to do this?
 

jumps4

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all shielded cable will be grounded at one end only to the enclosure ( the uninsulated wire in the cable twisted then solder coated )
 

jumps4

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the solder is rosin core any hardware store or radioshack has it ( just coat the wires no blobs on ends, if you get a blob flick it off while hot )
does everything make sense so far?
steve
 

MGP

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the solder is rosin core any hardware store or radioshack has it ( just coat the wires no blobs on ends, if you get a blob flick it off while hot )
does everything make sense so far?
steve
Yes and thank you so much im going to store to get some solder and a freind stopped over so i have his ohm meter also be back soon
 

jumps4

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ok post a message so I know your back
steve
 

jumps4

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you asked about your plug from the old pc power supply
yes it is perfect we will wire directly to the power supply through a power switch you may still need to get to mount in the front of the enclosure for main power. the old pc switch in the pic is of no use to us.
steve
 

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Electronic solder should be flux cored with rosin. Dont use acid core plumbers solder or you connections will break down from corrosion. 36 volts is a pretty hefty power supply, are you using a step down transformer for the 5 volt TTL signals or just running the raw current through a driver and out to the stepper? Sounds like Jump has you going the right way, but don't hesitate to holler for more help if you need any.
Wheelychair Bob
 

jumps4

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bob
stepper motors are very different from dc mag motors and run on up to ten times the posted motor voltage further back in this thread i explain why.
for the controllers we are using he can go to 48v with no problems if he needs more power. ( he wont )
but that requires a different power supply.
the only 5v needed is for the breakout board and it is supplied from the computer with a usb cable.
steve
 

jumps4

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bob
the wiring from the breakout board to the motor controllers for the direction and pulse are 5v the controller then converts that signal at what ever microstep setting to power supply voltage/amperage for the motors.
steve
 

jumps4

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bob
stepper motors draw their highest amperage sitting still in the hold position so to start with the switch no. 4 is in half current right now to reduce motor heating. his motors are large for an x2 mill making this most likely to be all that is needed to stop drift while cutting. if the motor will not hold the cutter load the switch 4 can be set to full amp load. this is still not a problem if needed due to the fact if overheating happens the driver will drop out to protect the controller because it is set at 2.85 amps max.
he will not force an x2 mill to have that great of a cutter load due to the mills motor size.
steve
 

MGP

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you asked about your plug from the old pc power supply
yes it is perfect we will wire directly to the power supply through a power switch you may still need to get to mount in the front of the enclosure for main power. the old pc switch in the pic is of no use to us.
steve
Ok can i get a switch from a local hardware store or home depot and if so what specs am i looking for?
 

jumps4

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yes the switch is 110v 15amp and lighted would be nice but not required because the fans will let you know its on.
steve
 

MGP

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yes the switch is 110v 15amp and lighted would be nice but not required because the fans will let you know its on.
steve
Ok im going to solder the wire ends ill be back soon
 

jumps4

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dont forget pics
we love pics here
they help others
steve
 

jumps4

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leave the plug for now
did you wire all 3 controllers?
steve
 

jumps4

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where is the bare shield wire I dont see it in the picture?
also lets hook up the motor ends first, before hooking it to the controller and test with the ohm meter ok? ( your colors are correct on the controller )
you have your heat shrink right?
steve
 
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