X2 Mini Mill CNC Conversion?

[MGP]

mgp
it would be better if everything is mounted to metal because the metal will be what all the shield wires ( bare wire ) connect to and the equipment ground will connect to it also ( the green wire from the power plug 110v connector )
the only thing that needs to be mounted on standoffs is the breakout board
the power supply and controllers mount to the metal plate
move the power supply and controllers to the far back of the case as possible the rear fan can be mounted outside if needed. we want the controllers back from the front fan. ( we dont want motor interference ) and thats why all wires inside the enclosure are shielded.
the fans do not have to be directly across from each other
the motor plugs should come out the back away from the fans
the parallel cable and usb cables should come out the back away from the power cord connection ( 110v ).
steve



steve

I wanted to mount everything on standoffs because of the bottom of the case is not flat and the standoffs will allow me to make everything fit nicely.
Now your saying move the power supply and controllers to the far back but i want to position the controllers so the fan blowing in blows over them correct? Like the drawing you posted? So the controllers the fan is blowing in and the fan next to the power supply is blowing out correct? Where can i get more standoffs?

 

[MGP]

Like this


and here is a pic of the motor with extension wires all done im going to get a longer piece of heat shrink to cover the wires all the down to the motors

This is how i have them positioned they are far back as possible is this ok? The terminal side of the power supply i was going to make that side of the enclosure the front where the power and e-stop switch will go?

 

[MGP]

Here is what i was thinking?

 

[jumps4]

that should be ok
mine the case is standing up like a pc and everything goes out the back
in the pic my pc is on the top the enclosure is the bottom one
steve

 

[jumps4]

in your pic I would move the controllers closer to the power supply and leave room for a 4th axis controller to the left of the other three later. It's kewl to watch a whole gear made without touching anything. this gear is 100 teeth and took this little sherline 18 hours but it came out perfect.

 

[MGP]

in your pic I would move the controllers closer to the power supply and leave room for a 4th axis controller later

Ok i will but i dont plan on a 4th axis

 

[MGP]

Going to bed talk to you tomorrow. Thanks Mike

 

[jumps4]

you asked me about the power switch yes 115v 15amp is fine and 2 terminals make sure its not a momentary switch
the standoffs most likely can be brass but without seeing the breakout board closer and making sure the mounting holes only have a ground connection....
the right way to build a board is the mounting holes are grounded so by faith alone i would say brass is fine. hold them to the board and make sure the diameter will not cross over into a circuit.
steve

 

[MGP]

Picked up a switch from Radio Shack its a rocker switch with an LED in it and says 16A 125VAC and it has three terminals on it two are silver and one is brass. The first two silver terminals are labelled 1 and 2 and the brass one say 3 + - . Sorry cant take a good pic of it. Will this work?

 

[MGP]

Picked up a switch from Radio Shack its a rocker switch with an LED in it and says 16A 125VAC and it has three terminals on it two are silver and one is brass. The first two silver terminals are labelled 1 and 2 and the brass one say 3 + - . Sorry cant take a good pic of it. Will this work?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3118987

 

[jumps4]

hi let me see how to wire it but yes we can use it
steve

 

[MGP]

hi let me see how to wire it but yes we can use it

steve

Ok good in that link there reviews on how to wire it.

 

[jumps4]

There are two ways you can wire this switch. 1. If you want the light on constantly: Pin 1: Line in. Pin 2: Load (switched). Pin 3: Neutral. 2. If you want light on only when the switch is on: Pin 1: Load (switched). Pin 2: Line in. Pin 3: Neutral. I wired mine the 2nd way to control a light that is out of view of the switch. Works well.

 

[jumps4]

we use the second one light on when power is on
steve

 

[MGP]

There are two ways you can wire this switch. 1. If you want the light on constantly: Pin 1: Line in. Pin 2: Load (switched). Pin 3: Neutral. 2. If you want light on only when the switch is on: Pin 1: Load (switched). Pin 2: Line in. Pin 3: Neutral. I wired mine the 2nd way to control a light that is out of view of the switch. Works well.

As long as you know im good with that.
How do we test the motors?

 

[MGP]

Im getting 1.7-1.9 ohms on the motors is that ok?

 

[jumps4]

ok
the motor wire testing is done with the ohm meter
if the meter is auto ok if it is older set it to the 10 ohm scale
touch the leads together and the meter should read "0"
the leads not touching anything the meter will hunt or flash or read infinity
lets check A circuit first touch one lead to the black and the other lead to the green, the meter should read about 2.1 ohms. (see your motor ohm specs )
to check B circuit touch one lead to red the other lead to white (blue@motor) the meter should read about 2.1 ohms. (see your motors ohm specs )
if good we need to check for shorts touch both the black and green wires to one lead and the white and red wires to the other lead there should be no reading on the meter or near infinity.
now holding all the wires together to one lead touch the other lead to the motor case and shaft there should be no reading or near infinity.
if all is good you can now wire the motors to the controllers
steve

 

[jumps4]

are both a and b the same or close on each motor
meaning all test within the same range?
thats just the difference in meters
if so yes thats fine mike

 

[MGP]

are both a and b the same or close on each motor
meaning all test within the same range?
thats just the difference in meters
if so yes thats fine mike

Yes both a and b on all motors test the same when i touch the meter leads together i get .3 so im going to get my meter tomorrow and check so 1.7
+ .3 = 2.1 so we are good. Thanks Mike

 

[jumps4]

see post #118 for wiring the motor to the controller
steve

 

[jumps4]

and holding all the wires to one lead and touching the case or shaft with the other lead you get infinity or no connection
correct?

 

[jumps4]

see you tomorrow I'll have an ac (110v) wiring diagram, limit switch diagram, and emergency stop diagram.
I'll also draw an option to kill the power to the mill on emergency stop
steve

 

[MGP]

and holding all the wires to one lead and touching the case or shaft with the other lead you get infinity or no connection
correct?

Correct

 

[MGP]

see you tomorrow I'll have an ac (110v) wiring diagram, limit switch diagram, and emergency stop diagram.
I'll also draw an option to kill the power to the mill on emergency stop
steve

Great hopefully i can get everything mounted the way i want it and then start wiring the ac(110v) system. Thanks again Mike

 

[jumps4]

ac power circuit
i know it looks like i did it in crayon lol

 

[jumps4]

this is the pinouts for your breakout board we will use this to setup mach3
USB DB25 5 axis CNC Breakout Board Interface Adapter For PC Stepper Motor Driver MACH3

DB25 control pin (PIN)
The pin of the drive board
1
STEPB
B(Fifth axis)pulse signal

2
STEPX
X(First axis) pulse signal

3
DIRX
X(First axis) direction of the signal

4
STEPY
Y(Secondaxis)pulse signal

5
DIRY
Y(Second axis)direction of the signal

6
STEPZ
Z(Third axis) pulse signal

7
DIRZ
Z(Third axis) direction of the signal

8
STEPA
A(Fourth axis) pulse signal

9
DIRA
A(Fourth axis) direction of the signal

10
LIMIT-1
Limit input interface 1

11
LIMIT-2
Limit input interface 2

12
LIMIT-3
Limit input interface 3

13
LIMIT-4
Limit input interface 4

14
DIRB
B(Fifth axis) direction of the signal

15
Vacant


16
RLY
Relay control

17
EN
All axis enable

18-25
GND
GND

 

[jumps4]

breakout board axis, limit and e-stop connections

 

[jumps4]

limit and e-stop connections

 

[jumps4]

correction :the nc and c are reversed on the e-stop in the drawing
and nc should be "no"

steve

 

[jumps4]

It may seem strange that all the limit switches are wired on the same circuit so i'll tell you how this works...
all the switches are closed completing the circuit back to the computer. mach3 watches this pin# to see if the connection breaks. since mach3 is moving the axis it knows what switch opened. so if it is moving z up and the circuit opens it knows it hit the limit and then mach3 reverses the axis to reclose the switch and stops.
when homing mach3 moves one axis at a time untill the circuit opens, moves off the switch and then moves the next axis repeating this untill all axis are homed. or just one axis is homed if thats what was requested.
e-stop will close the circuit if the switch is pressed telling mach3 to stop all axis this will not turn off your spindle without further modifications.
I will post a simple circuit to turn off all power to the mill on an e-stop. If you dont use it thats ok someone reading this may want to turn off the mill on e-stop.
since the mill is small this will not require a relay and can also turn off cooling at the same time.
steve