2013 POTD Thread Archive

I converted my Real Bull mini-mill to belt drive.

Photo 1 - Mill head with gear drive components removed
Photo 2 - Gear drive components only
Photo 3 - Belt drive components
Photo 4 - New base bracket mounted
Photo 5 - Spindle pulley installed
Photo 6 - Motor pulley installed
Photo 7 - Completed conversion

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Ok so this is not that impressive for most people but I am pleased to have made it work. A friend who plays percussion has this entire set of junk he uses it make noise. One of the things is this stainless steel water pitcher. He tried drilling a hole in the top of the handle to hang it from something and not understanding how spot welding works :roflmao::roflmao: the handle broke off. He of course asked me if I could reattach it. I said I could but it would not be pretty. He said not a problem rough looking was fine. Guess it goes with the act. So I set out to TIG a 24ga stainless handle back onto a 20ga water pitcher.
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It won't win any art shows but I won't break off again either. :)):)) This is some of the thinnest sheet I have welded especially a lap joint in the middle of a flat/curved area. The weld had great penetration (you could see the bead on the backside) but it didn't blow through. I did use mild filler rod instead of SS because I figured it would not be a brittle. I didn't know the SS alloy so I figured mild steel filler was better. Anyone know if that was a good idea or bad? I was not worried about it rusting just strength. I used a 1/16th electrode at around 30 amps DC.

Jeff

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I finished this brass hammer last night. The head was turned from 1" brass rod, the shaft made from a piece of 3/8" drill rod, and the handle from 3/4" 6061 aluminum. The pins securing the head and handle to the shaft were made from nails.

brass-hammer.jpg
 
dro's are mounted on my rong fu 30 mill.
I finally finished mounting all three axis dro's and guards have also been
fabricated and installed on "X-Y"'s. I spent 1/2 of yesterday and half of
today, measure, layout, fab, modify, fab again, modif again. . . . you know the
drill. I think this will work fine for most anyone that desires to copy what I
did, and even make improvements.

I made sketches and saved them for scanning and sending, and I took lots of
pictures that I hope will make it easier for you guys than it was for me.

the majority of the work involves bending some sheet metal and tapping a few holes. I used
#8-32 and 3m-.50 screws and allen screws for most all of it. a little wire feed
welding was done but there are other ways for making that part .

you'd be surprised how ridged 19ga sheet metal is when it has even the slightest
90 degree bend put in it. I have many square feet of it in shelving I got years
ago.

I will post pictures and some comments at a later date.

davidh
 
I finished my first-ever project turning any kind of steel at all (newbie alert). This is a cam/follower mechanism to lock down the tailstock on my Rivett watchmaker's lathe. I turned everything on the Rivett, since (for now) it's the only lathe I have, but there's a chance I'll be scoring a Myford Super-7 sometime soon.
All parts are turned from 1144 stressproof.
Handle was press-fitted into the cam's shank. Handle's post was .140", hole was #25 = .1405". The fourth picture shows the tailstock loose, the last picture shows the locked position.


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Congratulations on a well done project.

"Billy G"
 
Nice work Doug!
Just makes you want more machines, doesn't it?
 
Congratulations on a well done project.

"Billy G"

Thank you Billy.

Doug, you did a FINE job. Well done!!!!!!
Phil

Thank you Phil.

Nice work Doug!
Just makes you want more machines, doesn't it?

Yes it does LJP. I now see the need for a larger lathe, it seems to me that a decent larger lathe would let me take heavier cuts without stressing the machine. Heavier cuts = quicker working time. Also, I suspect I would benefit with a mill - hopefully at some point I'll also be acquiring one of Little Machine Shop's offerings.
 
fixed the ac, nothing else matters :drinkingbeer:
 
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