2013 POTD Thread Archive

Really great work Doug. Can't wait to see what you do in the future.

Jeff
 
Got my Marquette stick welder working. Bought it off CL for $100. It dates probably to WWII. The holdup was putting in a 50A circuit and new wiring and an outlet as it has a lot of horsepower.

It came with a ton of electrodes so I've been burning them yesterday trying to get the hang of stick welding. The electrodes stick to the steel a lot on first contact but once I get it going it lays a heavy bead of weld and is a joy to use. Guess I just need to practice more.

I tried a plain coathanger to see what it would do and it fried the coat hanger in half a second
 
Try striking the rod like a match it mite help from keeping it from sticking.

Paul


SE18 said:
Got my Marquette stick welder working. Bought it off CL for $100. It dates probably to WWII. The holdup was putting in a 50A circuit and new wiring and an outlet as it has a lot of horsepower.

It came with a ton of electrodes so I've been burning them yesterday trying to get the hang of stick welding. The electrodes stick to the steel a lot on first contact but once I get it going it lays a heavy bead of weld and is a joy to use. Guess I just need to practice more.

I tried a plain coathanger to see what it would do and it fried the coat hanger in half a second
Click to expand...
 
Sticking could be from too low a current, to large a rod for the current or old rods. Found its harder to learn on an "old" welder than the new "switch-mode dc" ones as they self adjust the start current, while to old ones just pump out XX :) Once you get the hang of welding with that welder, you will be able to learn the other types in no time :)

P.S. Got a pic of the welder ? Old welders really turn my crank :)
 
Right, it was a thick electrode and the power was low. When I plugged into higher power I did in fact notice a difference, but it ate my stick like a chow hound

Here's a pix

After some more practice, I think I'm going to try it out on a project. Extending the legs on my HF A-frame shop press. It only has 3 or 4 inches of space there now.

The leads on the welder are maybe 30 feet long. They got pretty warm. It was a hot day yesterday and I was working in the sun so it might have been the sun that heated them up

DSC_3171.jpg
 
From the pic it looks like you have a straight Ac welder. Your learning curve will be slow without some basic starting point. Grab some 1/8 inch 6011 rods and use them at about 110 amps. Drag the rod across the work or gently or strike it like a match to get the arc going. Be carful when bashing the rod tip onto the work to start it as the flux my be chipped back from the tip and this will make for hard starting. Some rods have more resistance to moisture than others. 6011 rods will last a long time if kept reasonably dry whereas 7018 should be kept in a rod oven continuously or they will be hard starting. Begin with flat welding and practice until you get a nice bead with the "eggs frying" sound. Once you learn what a good weld looks and sounds like, it will be easier to translate that into other positions and rod types/sizes. Go to Harbor Freight and get an auto-darkening helmet (bout 40 bux) as it will make everything easier. Good luck.
Ed P
 
this was not today but first chance to post. I made two insert buttons for the rear axle of my bike (each side of the axle is a different size bore) they have a small hole in the center. they are used to align the rear wheel. I did all this so I could align the rear wheel before I left for New Orleans on the bike. So I am now there and will be out of the shop for 3-4 wk's.
 
SE18

That welder gets major style points. Love the art deco look.

Jeff
 
cazclocker said:
I finished my first-ever project turning any kind of steel at all (newbie alert). This is a cam/follower mechanism to lock down the tailstock on my Rivett watchmaker's lathe. I turned everything on the Rivett, since (for now) it's the only lathe I have, but there's a chance I'll be scoring a Myford Super-7 sometime soon.
All parts are turned from 1144 stressproof.
Handle was press-fitted into the cam's shank. Handle's post was .140", hole was #25 = .1405". The fourth picture shows the tailstock loose, the last picture shows the locked position.


View attachment 57451View attachment 57452View attachment 57453View attachment 57454View attachment 57455
Click to expand...
How did you turn the cam, did you use a four jaw chuck and offset the round stock first, then reset it and turn the other portion of it?

M.L.Woy
 
M.L. Woy, the cam only had one turning operation, and it was in a 4-jaw with .0355" of offset. However I did turn it around and gripped the cam part with the 4 jaws centered so I could polish the shank in the area that will show when it's installed into the tailstock casting.

I just made a Photobucket slideshow showing a few more details. CLICK HERE
 
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